I've got a problem. I had to replace my Moen (1222) cartridge from a signal knob shower faucet. I had a lot of trouble getting the old cartridge out and had to use a drill to remove it. As a result I have created some small groves in the copper part of the valve. When I put in a new cartridge it leaks. How can I fix this without having to cut out the whole valve and replacing the copper.

You can't. Lesson learned. Do thorough research before attempting to be a Plumber. It is actually quite easy if you own the proper tool. Strike that.... sometimes the condition of your water causes calcium to build up which can be troublesome and make it hard to remove but having the correct tools can remedy this. Good luck.

Yea it was in there good. I have sulfur and I think that contributed to how difficult it was to get out. I tried 3 different type of pullers designed to pull out the cartridge. I tried penetrating oil. I even tried heat. The drilling it out was my last option. Now I have 3 grooves in the brass about 1/16" deep. I don't suppose there is any kind of insert I can put in that would fill in the grooves?

No, the valve body is destroyed, it will have to be replaced. Those cartridges can be very difficult to remove. I once drilled one out very carefully with a bi-metal hole saw bit,

NO WAY!

Steady hands, like a surgeon!

The entire valve assembly must be replaced now. No other choice, calling a plumber with the correct tools is sometimes a blessing.

PlumbCat TM 2003


Plumbermandan

BUT, some people REALLY want to do it themselves.

Not any more he doesn't. I had thought of trying to fill the grooves with a silicon sealant or maybe just sealing the front part of the cartridge before I put the knob on. Does that sound possible? What kind of sealant might work? Just a thought. I assume after I have done this the next time the cartridge needs to be changed I will have to replace the whole valve.

Just some ideas from a weekend plumber. What do you think?

Even if by some stroke of luck you can keep the water from leaking out from around the cartridge, the water will still cross over from the cold side to the hot side causing issues through out the house. We are not @#$%& you around, the valve body will need to be replaced.

Yea, I know. It just a much bigger job now. So do you cut a bigger hole in the fiberglass tub/shower or do you cut open the drywall to get at the pipes?

What is on the back side of the wall? go in from there.

Drywall (my living room wall). There is also a cold air return there. I guess I need to see if the furnace cold air return is blocking the plumbing for the shower or not. I bet I can use a flashlight and look in the hole from the shower side and see if I see drywall or cold air return duct.