I'm converting tub drain for standup shower. Existing drain is 12 inch vertical segment of 1 1/2 PVC glued into reducer bushing of 1 1/2 to 2 inch which is glued into 2 inch 22 degree elbow, connected with 2 inch segment of 2" pipe glued to another 22 degree street elbow into a 4 inch horizontal saddle joint, and after that I can not see.
I've read several places drains for shower need to be 2 inches. So I need to remove the 1 1/2 segment and replace with 2".
Everything was glued 20 yrs ago.
If I cut the 1 1/2 and then ream out the 2" 22 elbow, and make that the new connection, I'm afraid that during the reaming out process I'll ruin the fitting ( I have not previously reamed and I'm concerned if after the reaming will the joint be sufficiently tight so as to be able to reglue. I've seen the Reed Mfg video where they demonstrate the product, but when the show they reamed out segment, about 1/4 inch of the old pipe remains in the connection they were reaming). That's basically my question, are people confident with the reaming and regluing technique.
If I decide to try the heat gun approach to separate the reducer bushing from the 2" 22 degree elbow, even though I try to keep the heat concentrated on the part of the joint that I want to separate, will I have caused the bottom part of the same fitting to come apart because it is receiving residual heat. That's basically my second question, is anyone sufficiently familiar with these techniques ?

i have used a ram-bit maybe a dozen times. never a problem..
[www.plumbingsupply.com]

Nowhere in your description do I see ANYTHING about a "P" trap.

I keep a set of Ram bits on the truck, use them fairly often and have never had an issue with them.

Hi. The p trap is somewhere down line buried under the dirt / clay.

I'm curious if anyone has come across a reaming tool to use on a reducer bushing. You see after I remove the 1 1/2 pipe I was thinking ahead and I thought I'd get a 2" reaming tool, but since the diameter of the reducer bushing, on the end where the 1 1/2 pipe is inserted, is signigifantly larger than a pipe or fitting that would be reamed, and as a result, the guide portion of the reaming bit would not fit.

Thanks for the responses so far.

Thanks for responding. Do you have a reamer that would be used on a reducer bushing 2 to 1 1/2. I need to ream out the part of the bushing that the 1 1/2 pipe enters. Most of the reamers I've seen are standard sizes, but the opening of a reducer bushing, while it is 1 1/2 inches, the reaming tool would only scrape/ream the thickness of a typical pipe, but not the entire width of a reducer bushing.
If there is such a tool, could you pls write and let me know where to get. Thanks.

Thanks all for responding. You make the world a better place. I've got it figured out. I thought the inside diameter of the reducer bushing was bigger than it really is. I'm good, just need to get a reamer now. Thanks.



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