Moved into new house removed sink and pedestal to paint behind and also planned to replace the metal trap orginal from 2000 and oxidizing. Was difficult to get off so just sawzalled it. What I found was chrome sleeve covering PVC wall pipe that was a) bell shaped, b) would slide but not come off as on the pvc pipe there was a male adapter. Previously, at the wall end of the trap was a metal threaded elbow that attached to PVC male thread (out of wall) and slip unioned to the trap. Interestingly when I back fit this elbow on it only got tight at the 9 o clock position, ie.e not the 6 o clock postion it was previously in when attached to the trap and very very loose. Gas had to be getting in for years. Of course I have learned on here that slip joints aren't allowed on wall side in Mass, so we get things like this instead . Not sure what to do. I thought I get new trap and use same elbow but clearly can't do that then I thought I would just use pvc swivel 1 1/2 trap (possibly paint in chrome), as will be redoing bath in next 5 yrs, and dont care how it looks, but I would need to glue female adapter on it which which would push it out too far to attach to sink/pedestal Then I thought maybe there exists a threaded elbow that also can attach to the slip joint in trap, unlikely I then thought. Then I thought of selling the house, just for a minute. Then I thought, I could use a regular cleanout trap no swivel with a female threaded elblow on wall side glued into trap, meansurements will work but likely will have same tightess issue as metal elbow. And then on 2nd thought I figured I'd ignore code and use slip fitting. as if it is good enough for 49 why do I have to be special nad much safer than it had been when UP TO CODE! I have some room to cut wall pipe pic attached (you see why I needed to remove sink and paint) but was looking for better ideas to avoid the slip connection and not cut preferably in chrome or brushed nickel finish.

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i feel your pain...
just use a slip nut on the male threads and install a slip joint type trap. i think 49 other states allow this.
as for the original installation, the male adapter is made into the heavy brass 90 at the factory. so that may be the reason tou can't get get it to turn far enough.
if you fear burning in hell because you use a slip joint, you'll need to get a 'ram bit'. it is a special drill to drill the pipe out of the fitting behind the wall. then glue a new piece into that 'drilled out' fitting. then cut that piece to the correct length. cut the chrome sleeve to the correct length and glue on a new chrome 90 from a new trap.

Aha! Thanks so much for the help. Just to make sure I understand correctly, the whole unit (while made up of several pre-attached pieces ), attaches inside the wall and the 90 brass elbow which i included a picture of , while female threaded, is not only threaded onto the male pvc coming out of the wall but glued as well. In my instance it was loose due to age and or me trying to get the trap off it came loose.
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Going slip route. Not sure if the decorate piece can be shimmied up to cover adapter in previous post pic but I imagine it is supposed to.

And there is any special trap I need lmk. Probably go to Lowes/HD route although I do have local plumbing store across street but they looked dumbfounded when I brought the pictured piece in.

Watching the game Sunday at my house so much obliged Packy! My guests can now wash their hands while Pats wipe the Steelers!

Thx again!

just get a 1 1/2 x 1 1/4 chrome slip nut and washer. also pick up a 1 1/4 tubular p-trap.
you might need a 1 1/4 x 4 PVC slip extension to make the sink tailpiece reach the trap inlet ??
as for the pats, if they play the way they played against texas, the steelers are in the superbowl.. pats won ugly against a poor team. won't be so lucky against the steel curtain..

i just looked again... did you really paint your wall PURPLE !!!

Agreed on game! Should be a fun one. What you don't like Barney? Old owner =Bathroom was purple , before that pink and before that violet. Back of toilets don't lie! She had three boys so it was very strange. Newly painted blue here on link below.
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FYI In my last post I put link to pic of the old trap and 90. I gotcha on the trap. The metal sink drain pipe should be long enough to reach trap ; think has the 4" on it although I'm replacing that fixture soon so duly noted.

Ps not sure if you are active plumber I'm in Mansfield if you're close we should talk. I have other stuff to do and at some point want to redo/move some baths around upstairs and likely add a laundry room.

Thx again!
Alex

alex, i'm up here on cape ann.. mansfield is way too far to go. saw mansfield on the news. high school football coach was fired?? kids and parents were not too happy.
pats30-pittsburg20

Ok I grew up in Beverly. Parents still there and need their bathrooms updated (but they have for years). I'll track you down on here(or if there is a way to private message send me your info).

I'll try to post a pic when I finish my sink.

better hurry up with that sink install. you said you have friends coming over for the game tomorrow.
can't put out chips, peanuts, cold cut platter and a package of handy wipes..

Ha ha I got plenty time plumbing is always so straight forward ...if not as long as the beverage is flowing they'll deal. No toilet paper either only these :



Quick ? I'm At At HD , guy wouldn't leave me alone said he agreed but no reason not to use 1 1/2 trap and slip nut as it will fit. I bought both figuring it prob doesn't matter either way but I've learned he is prob wrong and there is a reason for the 1 1/4 so I don't Any preference?

Edit after getting home: yep as you already knew packy, 1 1/2 doesn't fit through this adaptor. 1 1/4 it is. I bought separate 1 1/4 washers for plastic tubular. I'm not sure if this or the one that came with the metal slip nut is better to use but figured the plastic would seal to pvc better ?



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metal slip nut if it is brass. if they gave you a plated steel nut, use it but lather the threads with grease.

Yep was using metal (the cheap everbilt zinc plated one) all along. I meant I was thinking I may need to swap washers (e.g. Use the washer from plastic tube 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 with the metal threaded piece )As it turns out the metal one will thread on with no washer but with washer (which is overly thick it will not catch threads which are subpar at the start

Add to the fact the pedestal installer caulked the heck out of basin as pedestal is too short for sink. I need to lower the bracket or Shim pedestal Think I'm close to Throwing in the towel and replacing whole sink and toilet w/ a pro.

Handy wipes are ready!



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bracket is not needed if there are 2 holes to (carefully) bolt the sink to the wall. the pedestal holds the weight and the slightly snugged bolts hold the sink to the wall.
you need to set the sink against the wall as it sets on the pedestal. mark the holes where the bolts will go. remove the sink and screw a pair of those screws that are wood screw on one end and machine screw on the other, leaving enough machine screw sticking out to get a washer and a nut on it after the sink is set.
then put the washer and screw and snug if firm..
i think a deeper slip nut will work. probably a plastic one will have a couple of more threads. or look for an all rubber 1 1/2 x 1 1/4 washer. they are not tapered on one side so they are thinner.
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you have 'till 6:40 so, work thru lunch if you have to..

Agreed. I've not given up. Same idea minus those double bolts came to me while I stared at the ceiling all night to figure out. Do not think sink holes for bolts will be on stud so was leaning towards toggle bolts but can use anchors and your bolts too I suppose? Correct not deep threaded joint. Those are the washers I was trying to no avail. Perhaps they have thinner ones yet I'm cutting the wall thread adapter off and gluing new one on. (I actually think I may need the space as the prior 90 was sharp 90 degrees vs tailpipe sloping 90).

Gotta patch wall where I damaged fitting sink in the bracket then off to HD. I reckon the 1 1/2 inch trap will now fit. Planning on sticking with 1 1/4 though. Also, no need to bolt or caulk pedestal down or (basin for that matter)correct. Weight from sink will secure.



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caulking depends on how well the manufacturer finished his product. sometimes the sink and pedestal nest together like someone cared. sometimes there is a slight wiggle no matter how you try to set them together so a dab or 2 of caulking is needed...
as for the bolts or toggles, these is no blocking behind the sheetrock ?
if not, toggles will work but there should be some caulking between the back of the sink and the barney wall. sort of glue the thing in place.



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Yes. Blocking the hanger/bracket was on it and when I marked holes for sink one hits it's the other doesn't. They only previously used one for sink where stud was. I Think I'll be ok with 2.5" lag on one and toggle on other. Gonna have trouble covering up pvc wall adapters but so be it

Pedestal is up

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