I recently purchased a used Koral whirlpool tub.The electrical motor/pump had wiring attached to it that looks like interior wall wiring. There is no visible connection anywhere for an air switch, so I am assuming it is a simple pump whirlpool. That being the case, what type switch do I use to turn the pump off and on? The pump has a 9amp rating, and I purchased a 20 amp wall switch, but I have not connected anything as I can not find any wiring diagrams for this operation. There are of course 3 wires coming from the pump, black, neutral and a ground wire. After that , I am at a loss as to what to do. Do I use a double pole switch because there are not enough connections (2 plus ground) to make this work with the single pole switch I purchased. ANY help would be appreciated as I really would like to get this operational by Christmas for my arthritic wife.

ANY whirlpool needs to be connected to a gfci circuit to protect against electrocution of the occupant in the event of a malfunction.

A guy I used to work with's wife was electrocuted/killed in a faulty hot tub.

This is very serious business.

It sounds like you care about your wife. Let's not get her killed.

YOU REALLY SHOULD HIRE AN ELECTRICIAN

Do you have a model number and have you looked on line for installation instructions?

Where are you pulling power from?

In general, the switch only breaks the black/hot between the house power and the fixture. So your single pole switch only gets wired with the black/hot (in from house power then out to tub) on the two screws. The neutral/White travels directly from the house power to the fixture (presumably spliced in the switch junction box). The ground wire travels directly from house ground, grounds the switch and then proceeds on to ground the fixture/tub (presumably spliced in the junction box)

But stop:

SOMEWHERE IN THE MIX YOU NEED TO PROTECT THE TUB WITH A GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERUPTOR (GFCI) RECEPTACLE (or GFCI dead front device).

Most tubs plug in to a gfci receptacle that should be placed in an accessible spot to allow monthly testing of the GFCI trip function. The tub then is operated by tub controls

In your case you might install a GFCI receptacle in the junction box along side the switch for the tub. The tub switch would draw hot and neutral from THE LOAD SIDE of the newly installed GFCI. Power goes in to the GFCI in the "line" side of the GFCI and out on the "load side" of the GFCI. The switch and tub are now protected by the GFCI.

There are devices called "dead fronts" that act like a GFCI but without the receptacle slots.

THIS IS ALL ASSUMING IT'S KOSHER TO WIRE THIS TUB ON A WALL SWITCH

This is a basic wiring diagram for a light. In your case the tub is the light. And the power draws from a GFCI



Crude drawing of a switched fixture drawing power from the protected "load" side of a GFCI (note:ground not shown but is necessary)





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