Friend had a Cadet 3 tank leaking.
Bolts were really loose . So thighten and leak stopped, easy fix.

But I noticed in the tank you had the Bolt head first, then a stainless washer about 1" dia. and then the rubber washer.

Pretty sure the metal washer should not be there but then again does not leak now. Should I go to the little trouble of removing?

Thanks

Lacking instructions stating differently, that would be the way I would stack things.

The washer should not be there but since it is not leaking now, I would leave it the way it is.

yes!!!

WOW, this is the third time in this century i have agreed with my friend from AZ..
the flat washers are not stainless, they are polished steel. they will in a couple of years rust causing the tank to become loose and leak.

Thanks.

I thought something looked wrong but it did not click in until after I left the place.



Edited 1 times.

Black washer only in tank.
Black washer on bottom of tank *with stainless washer then tighten all together with nut.
Bottom of bowl stainless washer and nut. Many different ways to configure a toilet rebuild. This is how I have been doing for 20 years with very little problems.

The problem with the metal washer immediately under the bolt head in the toilet tank is that the metal to metal contact is not sealed. It relies on the bolt's passing through the rubber washer to squish up tight as the bolt itself is tightened.

With the rubber washer on first, then hard bolt against soft washer gives a good seal, then soft washer against hard porcelain tank bottom gives a good seal.

One danger of long term leakage through the tank bolt holes onto the floor is that the tank bolts could get rusted fast to the nuts below and then be impossible to unscrew if the need arose.