Hello everyone.

I am about to glue on my closet bend for my toilet, but I made a measuring mistake so I am concerned my closet flange will be too close to the finished wall.

It looks like the closet flange will end up around 11-15/16" from the finished tile wall. However, since the old wall is partially gone and a new wall with new tile will need to be installed, it is difficult to say exactly how close the toilet tank will be to the finished wall.

I can't move the wall much because the vent stack is in the way and if the wall is moved too much then I will have to patch the gap created in the corner between the wall drywall and ceiling drywall.

I have considered redoing the pipe again leading to the closet bend, but that would entail removing the pipe glued into the wye in the main sewer line. It can be done, but I'd rather not if possible. I just want to get this done.

I do have 1/8" play between the closet bolts and the corresponding slots in the toilet foot, so I can off-center the toilet a little and gain another 1/8" from the wall.

So, I am right on the edge of not having enough clearance, and I was wondering if I could simply let the closet bend pushout after gluing around 1/8" just to make sure I have enough clearance.

The pipe dry fits snugly into the hub of the closet bend, so I think loosing 1/8" of engagement in the 1-1/2" deep hub will not weaken the bond too much.

Any thoughts? Is this done in practice? Pictures below.

[i93.photobucket.com]
[i93.photobucket.com]

Have you tried the toilet yet ? I'm inclined to believe it will fit. If you go 1 3/8" deep in a fitting hub it'll be fine too.

i can't tell you how many DWV joints of all sizes that i have glued that were 1/8 inch not fully inserted. never had a problem.

fully inserted = solvent welded

not fully inserted = glued

theoretically, of course

(the sockets are TAPERED and the solvent welding takes place near the very bottom due to the PRESSURE)

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Thanks guys!

I'm reusing the toilet, but I haven't set it in place yet since the plumbing is unfinished.

I got two things helping this pvc joint:

1. The dry fit is tight, so I should get some solvent weld action. I would think a partially-inserted glued joint that is tight while dry-fitting would be more likely to solvent weld than a fully-inserted glued joint that is loose while dry-fitting.

2. Unlike my crappy pipe cuts, the street elbow going into the closet bend is perfectly square.

Is it common practice to intentionally allow DWV pipe to push out for alignment purposes? I noticed the larger DWV pipes are more likely to push out compared to the smaller supply pipes. I guess this technique is not used on pressurized water supply pipes because they are more flexible and they are, after all, under pressure.



Edited 1 times.

'common practice' ?

unfortunately, in the 'real' world, yes


'good practice' ? NO


you sound knowledgeable - aim for perfect, settle for very good


1/8" on a 'factory fitting' will most likely be in the 'good' range

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638