Yeah, this is a 6" stud wall and the supply lines are around the corner from the stack. The original guys just went into the side of the vanity with the drain but now the new vanity is 3.5 inches away from the wall so we need to hide that abs pipe!
I hate to dig a 1-1/2" hole into these studs without being sure first!





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1 1/2 inch notch is not a problem in a 2 x 6 stud. still have 4 inches left..

yeah, there's still enough meat...

So, notch or holes...

Be sure to use nail guards, or stud plates to protect the pipe from nails.

Yo are going to have to notch the corner, but can drill through the triple stud.

Thanks for your comments.



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Move the T into the subfloor and run it where you want then pop it back up. Not as easy as notching the corner studs but maybe easier then relocating/moving/messing-up all that wiring. Going to have to cut out the old T anyways so might as well look at other options then just doing it how they did it. Looks like the floor joists are going that direction so might make it easier then it seems. Just depends on what's under the floor



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even if it were easier, they would need to vent back into the stack or seperate vent thru the roof.

You are going to have to be careful to not disrupt the wiring and move it out of the way. If I were doing this around the corner install, I would use a long turn 90 in the corner and come out with a 45 to the trap. Makes it easy to snake in the future.

It's a rat's nest under there with tin, copper supply lines and electrical. Really tough option but thanks for the suggestion!

It may be too tight for a long 90 in there but I'll check into it. I like the idea of making it more snakeable with that and the 45 stub out. Thanks for the suggestions!

I thought you could have 5 linear feet of pipe from the stack with 1 1/4" pipe without venting issues. Guess it depends how far away the drain would actually be. Could also run pipe up inside the wall and have a small grate in the wall for an air vent valve. Not sure how tacky that would look in a house setting. See that done all the time for commercial work.

If you have a multi-tool the notching of the corner would be a breeze, just be careful with the wiring.

Regarding the new vanity being 3.5" from the wall on that side which prompted you to have to relocate the trap arm. I wouldn't do that for that reason. I have done a similar thing in the past due to the location of the vanity light - I wanted to center the vanity to the center of the light and end up with a vanity about 4" from the side wall, and I didn't even need to move the drain. But that 4" gap has been an issue with tooth brushes, razors, dental floss, electric shaver charger...all kinds of loose items fallen into that space.

And it looks a little odd with that gap. You might think seeing a pipe below through that gap is odd, but over time you might see the gap itself being there as odd. I have actually considered ordering a new piece of granite 8" longer so that it would cover the gap, or build out the wall to be flushed against the edge, or solve the problem by moving the vanity electrical junction box so that it will center when the vanity is against the wall. My wife said why not build a 4" wide "shelf"? Knowing what I know now, I would leave the pipe alone, and find a better way for the vanity and the wall to meet. Now if your vanity has side drawers and the pipe is in the way of closing those drawers, then it's different.



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You raise some good points there but this vanity does have the drawers on the side. We have 55 inches between the wall and the tub and a 48 inch sink/vanity. (with the drawers)
I'd much rather just stub in the side of the vanity but it's not possible which is why we need to run around the corner.

If that 1 1/2" trap arm is longer than 42 inches, it must be revented back into that vent stack or out through the roof on its own. If it's run longer than that and not vented, it can cause problems with drainage of the lav. (Slow drainage)