I've been working on my first small job and attempting to get the hang of soldering. To make life easier I was doing most of the joints ahead of time on a bench with a vice.

I was wondering if there was a good way to test joints? I am happy with how some of the joints look... I have a few questionable ones (ie: one where the solder is not "visible", one where there is more surface solder that doesn't look like it took). They could just be sloppy, but I also feel like there is a less than zero chance that they may leak.

I was debating getting a sharkbite connector to "test" my joints. Using the sharkbite to temporarily hook them up to a water supply. Any thoughts on better methods?

Thanks!

Yes, use sharkbite caps and a test gauge, pressurize the piping to 100 PSI with air and let it sit an hour or so and check the pressure.

"...one where the solder is not "visible"..."

A properly soldered joint will show 360* of solder the full circumference of the fitting, even if it is barely visible. If there is no visible solder, reheat the joint, flux it, and apply solder to that area making sure it pulls in.

"A properly soldered joint will show 360* of solder the full circumference of the fitting, even if it is barely visible. If there is no visible solder, reheat the joint, flux it, and apply solder to that area making sure it pulls in."

Just clarifying: I thought reheating joints would do more harm than good... or do you mean reheat and start over pulling the joint apart first?



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"Yes, use sharkbite caps and a test gauge, pressurize the piping to 100 PSI with air and let it sit an hour or so and check the pressure."

I didn't think to use air. I suppose that's cleaner in a way (keeps the pipes dry), but would require rigging up a test system so that air can be inserted.

You can reheat as many times as you like, the problem comes with overheating. Generally a line that is holding water, or water dripping through is more likely to be overheated as the water cools the pipe, it cools, so you put the torch on it for too long because you get annoyed.. If the pipe is still dry, I would do as M & M suggests and reheat, hit it with flux, and attempt to put solder in the joint. If it still won't take, take it apart and clean it with a wire brush or emery cloth and a dry clean rag, then flux again and resolder.

I test with air since a leaky joint doesn't get contaminated like it would with water. If the joint leaks air when tested with soapy water in a spray bottle then I can just apply flux, reheat the joint and flow more solder without having to take the joint apart. Most of the time a careful visual inspection of soldered joint is all that is required without a pressure test. You soon learn to spot less than adequate solder flow and immediately reheat the joint before ever turning the water back on.

5/8 in heater hose from a auto parts store fits snugly on to 1/2 in copper pipe.

I sometimes test small assemblies with a bicycle tire pump if my air compressor isn't around.