Over 698,000 strictly plumbing related posts
Plumbing education, information, advice, help and suggestions are provided by some of the most experienced plumbers who wish to "give back" to society. Since 1996 we have been the best online (strictly) PLUMBING advice site. If you have questions about plumbing, toilets, sinks, faucets, drains, sewers, water filters, venting, water heating, showers, pumps, and other strictly PLUMBING related issues then you've come to the right place. Please refrain from asking or discussing legal questions, or pricing, or where to purchase products, or any business issues, or for contractor referrals, or any other questions or issues not specifically related to plumbing. Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. Our site is completely free, without ads or pop-ups and we don't tract you. We absolutely do not sell your personal information. We are made possible by:
Author:
davidwat (TX)
I want to replace some multi turn inlet shutoff valves with 1/4 turn ball valves in a relatively tight space under my kitchen sink. The distance between the valve and a second sweated T connection is 1.5-2 in.
1) How best do I keep cool the T connection while I remove original valve and replace it with a half in male thread?
2) what's a cheap but effective insulator I can use to prevent overheating the adjacent wood and pvc structures?
Thanks,
David - Dallas
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
Doug E. (CA)
the tee joint should not be effected by low heat applied slowly to remove fitting.
YES! don't start the cabinet on fire by carefully applying directional heat away from flammable surfaces. I often use a piece of sheet metal as a heat barrier.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
hj (AZ)
Because of the way the valve is constructed, and depending on how the piping is arranged it the wall, you MAY NOT be able to drain all the water out of the valve and if so, you won't be able to unsweat no matter how much heat you use.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
packy (MA)
loosen the packing nut to remove the stem and handle. you will have less mass to heat. depending on the orientation of the valve and the type flame you use, you can aim the flame into the inside of the valve to help keep the heat localized.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
KCRoto (MO)
Sheet metal can help deflect a direct flame, but there is still significant heat behind the metal, and the flame will sometimes follow the metal to the edge and catch something there. I would use a spray bottle with water and wet the cabinets first, use sheet metal, and keep the bottle there just in case something starts steaming heavily or smoldering.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
ravi102769 (VA)
You can use a heat shield gel that will stop the heat where you apply it. It's good stuff.
[www.inventables.com]
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
davidwat (TX)
Thanks guys,
I appreciate the advice. I will cut some sheet met. al and use the spray bottle and probably wrap a wet cloth, too. All the while cussing out these damn cheap cutoffs.
David - Dallas
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
bernabeu (SC)
solder on a Cu X Male adapter and use a screw on stop
next time = easy peasy
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
|
Post Reply
|
Please note:
- Inappropriate messages or blatant advertising will be deleted. We cannot be held responsible for bad or inadequate advice.
- Plbg.com has no control over external content that may be linked to from messages posted here. Please follow external links with caution.
- Plbg.com is strictly for the exchange of plumbing related advice and NOT to ask about pricing/costs, nor where to find a product (try Google), nor how to operate or promote a business, nor for ethics (law) and the like questions.
- Plbg.com is also not a place to ask radiant heating (try HeatingHelp.com), electrical or even general construction type questions. We are exclusively for plumbing questions.
Search for plumbing parts on our sponsor's site:
Special thanks to our sponsor:
|