I am replacing the upstairs bathroom sink in my 60 year old house. All has gone well except that the pipe which comes out of the wall is very corroded. This is a 1 1/2 in pipe which extends about 1 1/2 inches out of the wall. The ABS pipe connects to it. It is possibly galvanized steel and may screw into an iron pipe in the wall. I was going to try to unscrew it from the iron pipe and replace it. However, I would like to get some advice first. I can send a picture if needed. I am fairly handy but not plumber. Much thanks.
Tim

if the threads are in good shape just snake the pipe and leave it.
if there is only 1 1/2 inches sticking out of the wall you will probably crush it trying to unscrew it with a big wrench.

If possible, get a picture of the pipe- if possible get 2 pictures at approximately 70 degrees from the wall at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions so we can see fully the corrosion you are talking about. After that, spray the threads on the pipe where it meets the T in the wall with a penetrating oil like PB blaster every couple of hours. Most galvanized pipe that has been threaded into cast iron has swollen up with corrosion over the years and will need all the help you can give it.

Here are pictures from above and below. I did pick up some penetrating oil. I agree that the rusted pipe will likely collapse when I put a pipe wrench on it. I could probably put a lot of sealant around it for now but it would probably rust through in a year of two. Thanks so much for all of the help.
Tim


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That actually looks like what is left of a chrome plated brass waste arm from a 1.25" P-Trap that has been leaded in place to me. If that is the case, repairs will be much more difficult in most respects. I would actually open the wall and replace (at minimum) the entire T in the wall with plastic.

I think that you are right. When I tap a screwdriver around the rusty pipe, it is solder. I think that it is a 1 1/2" pipe soldered into a 2 inch fitting. Do you think that was how it was done 60 years ago or is that someone's 'fix' over the years (I am in Canada - probably the same standards as the U.S). I don't have the skill to do the job which you recommend. Is that something less expensive which would give a reasonable job? Much thanks.
Tim

well, a screwdriver and hammer could get the lead or whatever filler is in there out, and you can assess the situation from there. It may be that someone used an epoxy putty and just filled in around a p-trap. I have never actually seen a waste arm itself soldered in place, it usually a brass pipe soldered in, and the p-trap slides inside. If the existing threads are just hidden under epoxy, they may still be viable and would just require getting the gunk out of the threads and installing a new nipple in the wall; if it is junk, then cutting out the T would be the best way to go. As to price I can't say, but as far as plumbing hours it is faster to cut out and replace the T. That doesn't include the repair to the wall, which could be high if the the wall is plaster and lathe.

Much thanks. I will clean it out and hire a plumber to do it fully if I can't thread a nipple securely in place. My house is quite old and I do not think that everything can be made perfect for a reasonable price. I hope you will except my sincere thanks for your advice.
Tim



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Quote: "something less expensive which would give a reasonable job?" Yes, you could try a Fernco or No-Hub coulping on that old stub out. Use lots of plumber's grease to help it seal, Push it all the way up flush to the tee. Tighten it down snug where it will not rotate, but don't over-tighten. It will not be best practice; as others mentioned cutting the tee out and replacing it would be a best bet. Not a permanent solution but it will buy you some time.

that is one of the most incredible joints i have ever seen. i have done my fair share of lead work but i have no idea how the plumber did that one? it had to have been done out of place but then the trap arm has to extend out of the wall the right length in order for the trap inlet to line up with the sink drain.
i suspect it is either an XH tapped sanitary tee or a cast iron threaded 90 ???
i defer to my "old time" plumber friends for any ideas...
as for a fix for this... i would drill out the lead and carefully heat the female threads while cleaning with a fitting brush. should be able to get them clean enough to screw in a brass close nipple.

I don't think it is actually lead, the joint looks smooth and wiped like epoxy putty. It has a bit of a shine to it in the bottom picture I think, but it is hard to tell.

whatever it is, it lasted a long, long time..
looking at the second picture, the 3/8 nipples appear to be galvanized ??? if so, i would recommend unscrewing them and replacing with nice chrome nipples, 3/8 flat chrome flanges and 3/8 Female x 3/8 compression angle stops.

I can't believe everyone here is too young to have ever seen a connection like that. you do NOT have a rusted pipe. You have a cast iron tee with a brass "solder bushing" screwed into it and the drain line is soldered into the bushing. Remove the drain line by cutting the solder with a small chisel. Then use a hacksaw blade and the chisel to remove the brass bushing. Afterwards, get a 1 1/2" brass "trap adapter", (they go by many names depending on the area you live in). Screw it into the tee and then fasten the new trap by tightening the slip joint nut.



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i know what a solder bushing is but i don't seen an outer edge ???
anyway, how would it be tightened into the female threads. with an internal wrench?

There is no "outer edge". It is a 'flush bushing" and was usually tightened by twisting the "J" bend after it was soldered into the bushing.

I applied a propane torch to the rusty pipe which came out along with some solder. I think that the threads are not recoverable. The hole is 1 1/4" in the cast iron Tee. I am thinking of getting a 1 1/4" pipe and epoxying it into the Tee. There is at least 2 - 3 " within the Tee to hold onto the pipe. Does that sound reasonable? Thanks again.
Tim

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if your soldering skills are decent, you can get a 1 1/4 x 6 inch long slip extension. (has a nut on one end)
sand paper off the chrome on one end so you are down to brass. flux it up and slide it into the solder bushing. solder it and you are done. you can slide the arm of a p-trap into the extension and carefully tighten it up.
your plan to slide 1 1/4 inch pipe into the bushing will not work because 1 1/4 inch pipe is bigger than 1 1/4 inch opening you have.
you also might be able to cut a couple of slices into the bushing and using a small screwdriver and a hammer you can tap the pieces out leaving you a nice female thread.
so, you have a few options..

Do I have to come over there and bop you on the head? Just cut that brass piece out of the tee and install the trap connector I told you about earlier.

I was mistaken, I thought it looked like epoxy putty and not solder.

a trap connector with a slip joint washer on the outlet side of a trap is illegal in MA. in fact, it is more illegal than a spitball in the national league.

They usually have a ground joint "gasket", not a rubber one.

Thanks HJ. My first thought was solder bushing. Now I know I'm old too.