I'm trying to determine the make of this this bathtub faucet. I have a leaker and can't figure out how to get into the guts. My first assumption was that the top cap pops off but I can't get it to pop off and an close to damaging the finish trying. Could be a higher end or custom model from the mid 90s.

Any help would be appreciated. I'm about to really lay into getting the top cap off and hope I can repair any damage I do.
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I worked on a lavatory faucet with handles the same style, and they unscrewed at the chrome trim. I am still looking to see if I can find that faucet and verify that; I think the top and chrome were plastic, so it may have been a cheap knock-off.

that would be my guess. unscrew the cap you were trying to pop off.

It is a Price Pfister "EuroStyle" faucet. The white caps unscrew but since there is a rubber washer between it and the handle itself it usually takes more than just your hand to get them loose. First try putting your palm on top of the white disc and twisting. IF that doesn't do it, you may have to use pliers. Call 1-800-PFAUCET and ask if they still have a white "C" spout for a Roman tub faucet because your finish is going bad.



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I worked on a European faucet where I could not unscrew the cap on top of the handle. The cap had a heavy taper, so you could not grab it with pliers. I eventually, with customer's permission, drilled two small holes on opposite ends of the top of the cap so I could insert the tangs of a snap ring plier into the holes and unscrew the cap off. I sealed off the holes with clear silicone and the faucet still exists to this day with two small holes in the handle cap.

any port in a storm..

THANK YOU! Gave up on that approach but unscrewed it easy enough with a channel lock, a shop rag and a little extra confidence.
Having pulled the stem I find I'm only marginally closer to fixing the leak as stem itself looks okay. Am I on track assuming the problem must be at the base of the valve where the stem seals off? It looks like there could be an O-ring at the bottom of it but it's hard to see and I can't get it to move or deflect with a wooden skewer. Plastic O-ring instead of elastomer perhaps? Just mating feature of the valve?

Thanks for the tip on brand and style. I'll call PP Mon morning. I was going to attempt to repair the finish with enamel paint but will inquire about replacement first.

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That stem has a rubber washer on the end that needs replaced, and I would replace the brass screw as well that retains the washer.

They made three different stem versions. Yours is probably the middle one which was called a "washerless stem" but had a special type of washer, (in addition that stem would lose its chrome plating and develop a groove in the bottom of the stem which was metal, not rubber because the "washer" was in the bottom of the cartridge.) Remove the stem and take a picture of it, then we can advise which stem you need. Does the handle rotate 90 degrees or multiple turns to open?

About 1.25 turns. Couple of stem pics in my last post. The black "washer" on the end appears to be in good shape...

In the top of the two picture links, the side view of the stem looks like it has a good groove worn into it, and corrosion on the retaining screw. When you call pfister ask them about sending a couple replacement washers.

That is the "original version" so the seat is probably worn out and the rubber washer COULD be replaced. IF they have a new spout, then ask for new seats also. ALso, when you ask about the spout tell them it is for a valve with compression stems, because the later ones used a slightly different mounting base, although I have been able to interchange them with a little modification.



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