been a plumber for 15+ years now, in business for myself for 9.....never changed an anode rod

a customer asked me to change his next week when i replace his water softener....so i need to learn

on all brands its that separate bolt on top right----just take a socket wrench and pull it out and replace with a different element (i forget what the no odor one is?)

are they all the same (universal?)


dont laugh at me guys......i have just never run into the issue

separate "bolt" on top rear center. But some have it integral with one of the heater's connection nipples. It takes a bit more than a socket and breaker bar, because they are installed with impact wrenches and it either takes an impact tool or a long lever to remove them. In addition you may need to have someone steady the tank if you do not use a mechanical impact tool.



Edited 2 times.

Here is a good article that addresses they types of anode rods. [www.waterheaterrescue.com]

so if i wish to use a socket wrench and and cheater bar i still wont get it out?

I did mine three times. The first time I put an eyebolt in the adjacent studwall and attached my little cable hoist around the drain valve nipple or something else that was sticking out, to brace it while I turned the wrench and cheater.

Other people have said that using an impact wrench will work.

My last heater failed less than six months after I put the third anode rod in. If you want the old, barely-used anode rod, it's yours.

*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************

I forget the exact terminology, but the anode rod uses a 'specialty' thread which is still NPT - something to do with the interference depth of the threads.

It is TIGHT !

You will need a 1 and 1/16 " socket with a breaker bar and cheater

+

a SOLID hold-back (try wedging a 2x4 between the top tappings and a wall)


When installing the new rod I used some never-seez on the threads w/o any dope.

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Yes, but even with a heater full of water, you might turn it instead of the anode unless someone holds back on the heater.

My "Replacement" for an anode rod is a 3/4" brass plug. The anode has a conventional 3/4" pipe thread.

yes, conventional NPT

but

there are 'grades' of NPT

such as:

APS (american petroleum society) specification NPT

not saying that is what every maker uses, but, the threads REALLY REALLY engage

same total make-up, deeper thread contact

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

In addition to the above, check to make sure you have room above the WH to get the new anode in. You can get segmented anode rods for tight spots.

try: [www.plumbingsupply.com]

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

I've changed water heater anode rods a handful of times in my 15-year career. In addition to the good advice already given, I would add the following:

- For the 1-1/16" socket, make sure it is 6-point, not 12-point (6-point will get a better grip and less likely to round off the anode rod's bolt head). I would also recommend a 1/2" drive socket as opposed to 3/8" drive.

- I use a 1/2" drive breaker bar with the above-mentioned socket. Instead of a cheater bar/pipe, I just use a breaker bar, and, while keeping tension on it, I use a 4- or 5-lb. hand sledge and tap it with moderate force a few times until the threads break loose (this has the same affect as an impact wrench). As others have said, I would recommend having a helper or second person 'hold back' on the tank so it doesn't spin.

-Ken

You also need to know which type of anode rod to use. Most are magnesium, but if that causes hot water with an odor, then you would use aluminum. The anode protects your water heater tank from aggressive water by sacrificing itself. If you remove a 5 year old anode that is nearly fully intact yet, then you probably will never need to replace it. I've noticed in some municipalities that the installation of a water softener does in fact make hot water more aggressive and causing some anodes to be completely dissolved in 1-2 years.