Can anyone recommend a good one?

Also I heard the same models you get from a plumbing supply store and Big Box store are different is this true? If you order a particular Rheem from the Home Depot and you will get a cheaper version of the same thing if you order at a plumbing supply store? True or myth?

When you are price shopping, you have to compare apples to apples. Some models may have brass drains, more insulation, etc. I have generally found plumbing suppliers to have higher prices, but they seldom have the same models as a big box store. If a 40 gallon heater will fit, it is generally slightly cheaper than a 30 gallon heater also.

It will be the same heater, but it may have skipped some inspection steps.

It will generally be the same heater, except the supply house heater will have a few "upgrades", i.e., better elements, slightly better R value (efficiency), and a few other throw ins.

Very few heaters, no matter where you buy them have "upgraded elements".

Rheem touts them as a copper alloy element vs. the standard element.

Have you seen one? Unless it is stainless steel or incaloy it will burn out. I have two on my truck which were replacements for burned out elements, (after 3 months), that I don't think I will use for anything, except in an emergency.

Trying to decide between a Rheem or Bradford White 30 gal electric low boy model.

I am thinking of going with the BW. Price is about the same.

Now one thing I don't get, why the BW pressure relief valve sticks out the side of the tank instead of the top? My existing WH has it at the top, now I have to pipe across the heater and down the side...



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Most installations have the T+P drain going to the floor, so it makes sense to put the valve on the side. The old tube can be taken off the previous heater and reattached to the new heater. It also prevents a top mounted valve from having a drain sloping the wrong way towards the heater

Just DON'T pipe from the T&P valve UP to the old connection.

'Just DON'T pipe from the T&P valve UP to the old connection."

OK then how to do it? Leave it alone? The old connection comes out of the wall.

You could move the location of the T+P, redirect the drain to a new location, or get a taller heater if space allows.

Or buy one with the T&P valve on the top.

I found a Rheem model with T&P on top.

Today I removed the old HWH, and capped the hot and cold lines with JG end caps.

The middle is the skinny line I think it's 3/8" the old T&P valve was connected to. These are about 36" or so off the floor.

So just to make sure the T&P valve on top models work best for me right?

Probably not, because 3/8" is WAY undersized, (1/9 the size it should be), and that size line usually went up to the roof, which makes it doubly wrong.



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hj if you look at the picture there is a wall opening below and the line actually goes down into the concrete slab (and not sleeved). I really don't know where it goes.

The TPR Safety piping should be FULL SIZE and run DOWNHILL to a VISIBLE location of SAFE DISCHARGE.

if not, the following becomes possible:




now, you, as a landlord, ARE knowledgeable

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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