I have an overflow elbow that was installed too tall for the hole in the tub. The elbow nut hits the tub on one edge. Is it safe to use the flexible couplers in this relatively non accessible area? It's 2 inch black ABS. Also the inside tub has a slight incline, not parallel to the drain pipe. Thanks.

What kind of "flexible coupler" would you use? ALL tub sides are slanted and NOT parallel to the drain pipe. 2" is an unusual size for a tub drain, unless you mean 1 1/2" sch. 40 which is about 1 7/8" o.d.



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The building plans stated 2 inch. The hole in the tub is 2 1/2 and the overflow elbow threads are about 2 3/8ths. I was going to use the black flexible coupler that has the screw clamps at each end. This might help square up the nut inside the tub as well. Thanks.

you use a tapered washer on the back side of the overflow elbow. the taper is aligned so it opposes the slant in the back of the tub. this brings the overflow pipe perpendicular to the floor.

what kind of tub is this that has a 2" drain and has ANY kind of nut inside the tub? an agricultural tank comes to mind, not a bathtub.



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We're all confused so a photo is probably in order.

If you are measuring the outside of the threads, that has absolutely NOTHING to do with the pipe size.

I appreciate everyone's comments. Short version is that I pulled up the master bath carpet to lay down tile. Under the carpet in front of the 60 inch Aqua Glass tub was a large hole in the slab. Would not have been a problem except they filled the hole with fast setting quikrete and did not fill the space below. Tapped on the surface and a chunk fell down. I pulled the tub front panel off and since I knew the overflow elbow was cocked in the tub, I would fix that issue and pour real concrete. My question about the flexible couplers might not be a good solution as they seem to be used for vent pipes. Hope this link works to my photos. [s46.photobucket.com]. Thanks to all.

IT appears "someone" did not know how to make an overflow fitting. The thread is apparently at a right angle to the riser, which is why it is NOT flush with the tub. Unfortunately, as you apparently know, if you do cut the riser so the nut tightens properly the riser will NOT be vertical, and it cannot be cured by using the normal beveled washer. I would scrap the waste and overflow and get a 'good' one.

DITTO HJ

plus - replace the 'skim coat' of quikrete just in case you have to work in there again - the backer board will be sufficient support for the tile

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638