My Request is about my existing Toilet Flange currently not 1/4 inch above my Tile and the Tile on both sides of the Flange is not Level. I am not sure how to correct the problem? I was told at the Home Improvement Store to just install a Extra-Thick Reinforced "Wax Ring Kit" but I want to ask for expert advice first.

Thick wax.

That is the advice I recieved from the Home Improvement Store Rep. It just does not seem that installing that will be enough to fix the leak I have under my toilet. The previous installation of the Tile and Toilet was done before I bought my Home. I recently found that the Toilet was leaking under the Tile that is located under the Toilet and I am requesting help to correct the problem please.

how about a flange spacer that you fasten onto the old flange?

Of equal importance is the method you use to secure the toilet bowl to the flange.

That idea is ok, but if I install a spacer I will end up with more than 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch clearance above the Tile. Therefore I do not think I can install a spacer. Right now I have 1/8 inch clearance on the right side of the Flange and the left side of the Flange is just about flush withe Flange. Any idea's what I can do?



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Hopefully this picture will better show the issues I am having? I appreciate any idea's or replies that you post to assist me.



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I would take two wax rings knead them together like pizza dough and make my own wax seal almost cone shaped. As far as tile off level you can use plastic shims.

Your comment was "As far as tile off level you can use plastic shims."
Are you commenting about using plastic shims to try to level the Base of the Toilet? Do you think this is the best way to correct the 3 problems: the Flange and the Tile not being Level and not having the proper clearance between the Flange and the Tile?

As long as the flange is solid and the toilet is mounted securely to the flange, the only reason that a toilet would leak is because the seal between the flange and the stool weren't sound. Using a taller wax ring will provide the initial seal, and using silicone caulking will seal the toilet to the tile so that it doesn't shift and slide. When installing ceramic on ceramic, there isn't enough friction to prevent movement, so you have to use something to stop the motion. I don't recommend grout because it is too permanent. 100% silicone will keep the seal intact.

Steve you are right. The old wax ring cone needs to be removed and I do plan on removing it. The Old Flange is in good shape except for the fact that it does not have the proper 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch clearance above the Tile.

Thank you for your reply, I would like to correct the 3 problems listed above in the most correct way possible. I am reading and following the post to see what kind of idea's are expressed and offered. The main thing is I want to fix it right the first time and I know I am really not an expert, but I would like to hear idea's from anyone with Plumbing experience. I really appreciate the time everyone has taken to assist me with these 3 problems, all of which have resulted in the Toilet leaking water that was slowly running under the Tile which is why I removed the Toilet.



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I think you need to secure the flange to the floor. Maybe even make some shims for the flange itself because it looks like its floating off the subfloor. If the flange is not secure the toilet is not secure. If it moves over time it will break your wax seal. So like others have said secure flange, it should not be able to move at all in any direction. The hight does not seem to be a real problem. Its actually high in terms of a low flange. Shim the toilet without the wax then pull toilet move the shims out directly away from the toilet an inch and install wax and set her home. Then push shims in. If you are rocking that thing a bunch after you set it it will leak. Thats why I shim them this way. I like to put the wax on the flange and set the toilet on top. Which the manufacturer would tell you is wrong but it works for me 100% of the time. And like others have said caulk the toilet. I would give it 5 good flushes before taking this step though. Its a pain to clean up if you screwed the pooch.

I think your issue from the start had nothing to do with the flange hight and everything to do with a wobbly unsecured closet flange and toilet. Or if you had that plastic peice between the wax and the toilet that would have leaked for sure. There should be wax incasing that cone on top and bottom and sides. I dont see how it ended up like this unless half of the wax is still on the toilet. In which case I would not buy the same brand wax ring. That cone is not even needed. The toilet should fall directly into the toilet drain. That thing does nothing except act as a splash generator.

When you secure the flange it should be level with the earth not the crooked floor. Since its floating the screws are pulling down on the sides and making it unlevel. Which is the major problem I see with that flange installation and could very well have caused it to leak.

~ when a toilet is set it compresses the wax to make a seal (DOH) but ANY later movement/rocking will break the seal as the wax has NO ELASTICITY at all ~

clean everything COMPLETELY

secure the flange to the subfloor as level as possible

'dry fit' the toilet and make a pencil outline

use 1/2" x 2" cardboard shims (stacked as necessary) at 4 points to level the toilet

pick up toilet LEAVING SHIMS on floor

place plaster of paris (not grout or caulking) around base just inside pencil mark (use enough so some will squish out after setting bowl)

set bowl onto gasket and flange with a firm DOWNWARD push

let plaster set up for 10-15 minutes and remove shims - plaster of paris the holes left by shims

voila: perfect ROCK SOLID 'old school' toilet install (removable using a putty knife)

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Only if the flange was too high. A low flange will never meet the base of a toilet and cause it to be crooked. The toilet sits on the tile and there will be a gap between the flange and closet. Hence the wax ring. The bolts provide force to the toilet pulling it down because the bolts are pulling straight down from the holes in the toilet. you could seal a toilet on a low flange with a 20% slope, but you will have problems sealing any toilet at any angle of flange if it is too high unless you can raise the floor to a sufficient height.

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Thank you for some "Really Great" Advice. I really appreciate the time everyone has spent helping me with these issues.



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Unless of course you think you make a good seal because the high side compressed the wax and the low side hardly even touches it. Not to mention if it has a high side this means its floating on that side. Which means the flange is not secure. Or if you have hips and rises in the flange. Which means there is a bunch of stress on the flange which could cause it to crack. A closet flange should be level with the earth and be secured to the floor and not have dips in it where the screws are trying to pull it apart. When you put some pressure from the opposite direction when installing the toilet you pull the screws through the flange and its not mounted at all or it breaks. in this case it looks like it would be an easy fix and would be an improvment in any case.



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