This is my first time here but i will attempt to post pictures and diagrams.




I'm trying to add the utility sink, washer, and dryer in the garage as shown in the picture, then through the wall on the right, to a vanity sink on the other side of that wall, inside the house. More pics at the bottom also.

I'm moving original washer from kitchen in old house, to garage. I already have a 4" stub coming up from under the slab in the front corner of the garage going out to the main drain in the front yard which was installed years ago for this purpose.

Picture yourself in the garage looking at the long side interior wall (with the interior of the house on the other side of that wall). The 4 inch drain would be on the far left corner. I 90'ed off that, running 2 inch ABS to the right at a 1/4 in 12 slope mounted to the garage wall just above the slab. Installed in the far right corner, from left to right stacked next to each other, will be 1. Utility sink 2. Washing Machine 3. Electric Dryer.

Then, going through the back or end of the garage wall (on your right) to the inside of the house, I plan to put a 36" bathroom vanity sink, and make a small "sink only" bathroom. If I am required to run a vent pipe at this location inside the house, then I might cancel this last sink on the right end. (I am assuming that I can vent through the wall into the vent pipes in the garage since the distance from the sink center through the wall and into the garage will be only 21 inches).

From the center of the utility sink to the center of the indoor bathroom sink will be at most 90 inches.

How would you go about plumbing and venting this, and what would be the simplest layout?


As you can see, I made at least the following mistakes: (or are they ?)
1. Washer trap goes directly to combo or "long radius" sweep.
2. Sanitary tee installed in horizontal drain pipe for utility sink drain.
3. Utility sink drain (above) is too low and will put trap below the level of the horizontal drain it's going into.
4. Utility sink drain is not vented properly? Or is it's proximity to the washer vent close enough?

See anything else wrong?

Not yet shown, is the future plan to continue this 2" drain through the wall on the right, into the house, and put a sink on the same wall, inside the house. Please advise on that too.

Thanks much in advance for your help.

Ps: This is my first time using this forum and photobucket, I'm trying to link to the pics
but not sure if I'm doing this right. If there's a problem with the pics let me know, thanks.











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the only good thing i see is that you have a vent available.
take the rubber coupling off and install a 4 x 2 san tee with a full size cleanout on top.
you need to properly vent all 3 fixtures.
there can not be a san tee used to accept a drain in the horizontal pipe, must be a a'y'...

And there can not be a wye to accept drainage on the vertical vent, it needs to be a tee.

How is this? The vent for the vanity sink on far right end, other side of that back wall, will be added in future, on the garage side of the wall, since it's within 3.5ft of the trap. That vent will go into the right side of the horizontal qaad san tee near the washer box.

BTW, that vent pipe on top of the box is over 6" above the highest fixture, which would be the washer drain pipe. Is that OK? I did that to keep the upper wall clean and uncluttered as possible for future shelves installed above the outlets.

Outlets will be on GFCI protection.








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The vent for the laundry sink can't go horizontal until it's at least 6" above the rim of the sink. What's with all the mixing of PVC and ABS? Local code might frown on that.

If they do allow it, they make abs-pvc transition glue for that purpose. I don't think you will have a problem though, especially if you paint it all to match the wall.

I thought any horizontal vent needed to be 6" above the flood level of the highest fixture? In this case, wouldn't the washer drain be the highest fixture?

The washer drain is higher than the sink, and I made sure the horizontal vent was 6" above that.

Regarding the mixing of ABS and PVC, that was because the stores near me here did not carry 2 inch PVC fittings, and I already had the pipe, didn't know you aren't supposed to mix it, and I thought the exposed, visible portion would look better in white. (The ABS will all be hidden by the appliances and a work bench).

Hmm... I hope it's not going to be a problem, the local "store" guys said it was OK to mix.

Let me know if you see anything else wrong. I'm glad I checked here, I learned that plumbing is not as simple and "common sense" as I thought it was!

Thanks for your input and help.

NO PART of the vent may go horizontal before the 6" is met

get rid of the 2 white ells, simply go straight up and over to the tie in

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

The bottom most part of the horizontal IS more than 6" above the nearest fixture (which is the washer drain).

By the way, does anyone know what the codes are for running a vertical drier vent through the roof?

Does it need to be double wall? Anything else?

I plan to run it strait up in the corner at the right.

Thanks.

The plumbing vent pipes need to be only 1½".

I don't know about the code for venting an electric dryer, but going through the roof is a bad idea. Adding a roof penetration, extra distance to push the wet air and lint, and no practical way to clean the lint from the pipe, increasing the risk of a fire are what immediately jump into my mind. Just my $.02

I understand your reasoning, but have seen several newer homes in this area with dryer vented through the roof, in fact, one I worked on was even a two story home and the dryer was on the first floor, and yep, I was not there to work on it, but happened to notice it was plugged up.

I asked the homeowner, and their eyes got big and said "so that's why it doesn't dry clothes well any more. I was going to get a new dryer."

But the point is, it is legal here.


Back to the mixing of PVC and ABS... that is quite frustrating to think I should have to change that, it's only vent pipe, only air goes through it at zero pressure, and it's also already oversized at that. (1.5 inch required and I have 2.0 inch).

As I understand it, codes are written to protect the public health, safety, and well being, and to help prevent future problems.

That being said, what is the future problem or threat to society caused by using PVC for vent lines above ABS drain lines?

none - your choice of material is fine - if exposed, paint it for 'cosmetics'

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

I second that motion. I have seen a vent stack wrapped in burlap with leaves added to disguise it. If I hadn't been looking for the cleanout, I might have thought it was just part of the jungle themed room. The stuffed monkey wired to the P-Trap of the bathtub gave it away.

Steve: That's pretty cool how you re-routed my vent pipes with software in my picture.

That definately looks better and simpler, however, the reason I did it that way was to clear the back of the laundry tub so it could fit flush against the wall. That way, the vent pipe for the tub fits behind the washer, and my laundry tub can go all the way to the wall.

I'll post some pics when it 's all installed.

It was a tight fit, everything just barely made it, including the dryer vent in the corner.

Thx

To keep the sink vent legal, you also could have come out of the sanitary tee at a 45* angle towards the standpipe and then turn 45* to go vertical along side the sink. Anything more horizontal than 45*, before it's 6" above the flood level is not legal.

Here in iowa the use of PVC as a dryer vent material is forbidden.the tempered air movement and fibrous content of the inevitable lintel within the dryer vent creates a static charge. In the event of overdrying thothing you run the risk of static discharge igniting the dried lintel causing a fire. Here they require a bare copper wire to be grounded at both ends of the dryer vent if PVC is the only material possible for use.