Our 1987 home is on a concrete slab.
To the best of my knowledge (based on Google search, as I have no plumbing experience), the toilet flange was installed at the wrong angle.

In the photo, the wall is parallel to the top of the pic.


The flange is attached (one piece) to a straight pipe that is approximately 6" long measuring from the joint to the top of the flange. Closeup of product info on flange:


The flange is not screwed or attached to the floor in any way. In fact, in an effort to unscrew the flange to possibly rotate it to the correct angle, I found there is no concrete in the area where the screws would mount. The flange is securely fastened (glued?) to the next pipe, as pulling up on the flange pulls that pipe as well. (There is about 1/8" step down between the 2 pipes).

Our previous toilet had been installed with the bolts through the 2 notches on the sides of the flange.

Also, we inadvertently discovered that our setup requires a 10 rough in toilet.

My questions are:
1. Is it advisable to replace the flange to properly reinstall, or are there other options for making this work?
2. Is there a (good) flange adapter to convert our setup from a 10 to a 12 rough in? If so, is the correct bolt placement necessary for this to works?
3. I am handy with no plumbing experience. Can I do this myself?

I am trying to wrap up this project asap and would welcome any and all suggestions. Cost is a primary concern.

Thank you!
Jenny

the flange will work the way it is orientated. most important is to fasten it to something.
if it were me... i would CAREFULLY break away some tile at the front and rear of the flange as these locations will be totally covered by the toilet bowl. then with a wood shingle, cram in some good strong mix if mortar. make sure to get it under the holes where it will be fastened but being careful not to fill up the slots for the bolts. maybe slide the toilet bolts into place while the mortar is still soft just to be sure. use 5/16 solid brass brass bolts and screw a nut down on each one to tighten them to the flange. leave the nut attached as it will not interfere with the installation. it will actually help.
tapcon screws are great for fastening the flange to the newly poured mortar.
this is not a tremendously complicated project. done carefully and done well it will last a long, long time..

Quote

My questions are:
1. Is it advisable to replace the flange to properly reinstall, or are there other options for making this work?
2. Is there a (good) flange adapter to convert our setup from a 10 to a 12 rough in? If so, is the correct bolt placement necessary for this to works?
3. I am handy with no plumbing experience. Can I do this myself?

#2 - NO, but see answer to #1

#1 - If the toilet will install 'square' to wall (there may be enough 'play' to allow for the slight misalignment of holes) you should be OK

#3 - Based upon your questions, you probably could not do anything other than bolt on the toilet

This is what you need to do:

Hire an actual licensed, insured, bonded plumber to reinstall the piping PROPERLY. If this involves 'chopping' and some tile repair, so be it.

Unless you have severe space limitations the flange needs to be 12" from FINISHED wall to center of flange. Else your toilet choice now and in the future will be very limited.

Using the strong notches for mounting is GOOD, but, they must be installed EXACTLY parallel to wall.

The flange MUST be on top of finished floor AND bolted to the actual sub-floor.


food for thought:

Why is there never time or money to do it right, but always time and money to do it again?

ps. the existing flange is actually solvent welded to the piping

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.

I would proceed the way Packy outlined. If the flange ears are not square with the wall, use a Dremel to 'carve' out a little of the plastic flange ears to get things squared up. Then, use fast-set mortar and embed 1/4" X 20 brass or stainless rod at the bolt locations. Place some nuts and washers on the embedded part of the rod and make sure plenty of mortar is surrounding that portion. Important- Allow enough time for the mortar to set before moving on to the next step. Don't worry about securing the flange to the concrete- the toilet will not be pulling against the flange now, it will be pulling against the floor anchors.

Set the toilet on a plain, jumbo wax seal and proceed as normal in setting a toilet. If your measurement from the wall to flange center is less than 11 1/4", you'll have to use a 10" toilet.

I just want to add that if you stay with a 10" rough yes your choice of toilets would be limited, however, TOTO has a bunch of models that uses that unifit system which let's you use 10", 12", 14" roughs.

Carlyle II
Carrollton
Carolina II
Lloyd
Soiree
Guinevere
Vespin II

Thanks for the advice. Here is what I did:

I purchased 2 of these:
[m.lowes.com]
I installed one under each side of the existing flange, installing the bolt under the metal plate.

I purchased & installed a 10 rough in toilet.
[m.lowes.com]
For the cost of an adapter and the potential problems associated with it, I definitely did not want to use any sort of adapter.


The toilet is more solid than it has ever been

Did you use the hardware provided to anchor everything to the floor because now the flange MUST be secure?

quote; I installed one under each side of the existing flange, installing the bolt under the metal plate.

Did you fasten them to the concrete floor? If not then there was absolutely no reason to use them, because there was really nothing wrong with the way the flange was originally installed.

Quote

#3 - Based upon your questions, you probably could not do anything other than bolt on the toilet

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Yes - the wing on the frame extended over the concrete slab. I used Tapcon screws to attach the plates to the concrete & the brass bolts go through the plates.

JOB WELL DONE

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638