Hi. Wondering how to bolt a toilet flange to a subfloor without cutting a hole in the ceiling, from the lower floor. So far the only idea I have is to use Wood screws and some caulk. There has to be some method or trick; if a plumber replaced my toilet flange, what ever bolts was there would have to be 'put back' with the new flange. So, how would a plumber fasten the new flange to the subfloor?

I renovated my bathroom, the flange that I removed was not secured to the subfloor (which is why the toilet moved), and am about to glue the new flange. I didn't realize the dilemma I was setting myself up for until I began to research proper flange installation.


Thanks

Stainless steel screws. The flange needs to rest atop of the finished floor, not the subfloor.

the back of the flange should sit on top of the finished floor
the (corrosion resistant) flange anchor bolts should be into the subfloor, not merely the tile

'bolting' is a generic term used for 'securing by the act of fastening' which includes screwing using self tapping screws

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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I agree with NC Plumber, flange sits on finished subfloor. You need to explain more of your problem was the floor built up with new flooring, was the subflooring rotted away, what type of subfloor wood concrete? You don't have to cut a hole in the ceiling no matter what the problem is. But yes the flange is supposed to be screwed down to the finished floor that would also penetrate to the subfloor if possible with stainless screws. ALSO glued like you said so doesn't leak below the floor.

Thanks for the responses. I tore up the old plywood subfloor and put down 3/4inch plywood (tounge & groove), used a leveling compound, Schluter Ditra, and tiled the floor 13x13-tile. The previous house owner tiled directly over the original linoleum without properly securing the toilet flange, as a result the tiles around the toilet became loose. The original subfloor was 5/8's with some water damage around the tub area.

I wasn't sure if (aluminum) wood-screws would be sufficient to secure the toilet flange. Part of me figured nuts & bolts would be the only real way to properly secure the flange; which by-the-way, will rest ontop of the tiled floor.

I'm more than happy to drill a few holes through the tile and screw & caulk the flange. I had it in my head to instal a small access panel in the ceiling below which is another 2 piece bathroom.

Thanks again for the tips.

Shawn - Ontario Canada

N.B. Typed on my iPhone with. Set of large thumbs; typos and errors are guaranteed.



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I hope you have 3/4" subfloor and 1/2" underlayment, at least. Three quarter alone and you will crack tiles quickly.

Paul - I don't see how you can say that without even knowing the joist spacing or what the tile is made of. Ditra instructions allow for 3/4" plywood.

jerco....Ditra is an underlayment. Takes the place of the 1/2" plywood, no?

Yes. The Schluter Ditra is the thinnest underlayment on the market. It has specific requirements in order to do its job, but it is also a waterproofing membrane.

Watch this: [youtu.be] …a marketing video made by Schluter.

(Edit) had problem with URL



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