Ok my toilet shut off is a chrome pipe sticking out of the wall with a shutoff screw in style on the end of the pipe. It doesn't seem to want to shut off by hand. Should I put a pair of channel locks on and try it ??
I've used it before but its been a couple years.
If I end up changing it does it just thread on the end of the chrome pipe or are these all one pc ?

Trying to torque it shut would more likely break it!

IF your stub is a threaded pipe...can you see threads ON THE PIPE?...then the valve will just unscrew. Problem is the nipple might come with it. Try to hold back on the nipple with some non-marring jaw pliers.

If you don't see threads actually on the pipe itself, post a photo.

Your description could fit a couple of different valves, one of which unscrews and the other solders on.

Ill get a pic, I don't recall seeing threads but there are flats on the valve ??

The chrome could be a "cover tube" over a galvanized nipple which would cover any visible threads.

There is no galvi in this house its all copper .. It looks like the valve may be threaded on will post pic

Could be a chrone sleeve over sweat, which is why we are saying to really figure out what it is before you start twisting things

if the house is all Cu

and

if the stop was installed 'best practice'

then either:

chrome threaded nipple with screw stop

OR

Cu x NPT adapter with chrome 'sleeve' and screw stop

HOWEVER

in today's 'who flung dung and run' world assume NOTHING

if the escutcheon is tight to the stop you will need to cut it off to make sure of threads (or lack thereof)

if necessary it can be replaced with a 'split type'


if you have a Cu 'stub' out of the wall and you don't want to (or can't) solder on a 'male adapter' you can replace the stop with a chrome compession type with a chrome 'slip tube' which allows for future easy replacement

SEE: [www.free-ed.net]

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 2 times.

trim ring moves around fine, it does appear it may be threaded on I do not believe its a sleeve.

1) if it is threaded on is the oppisite end threaded into something or sweated ?

2) I did get it to dhutoff, Ma is not too strong.

3) should I leave it alone ??

4) the shaft was a little wet so I tighteend the packing nut a little and its dry now. Is that a packing nut ??

whacha think

[i147.photobucket.com]

your shutoff is probably one of these. you will need to shut off the water to that bathroom, remove the packing nut and stem, apply heat to the center of the chrome extension and twist and pull the valve off.

or, if you can identify the valve brand, you can get a new valve remove the packing nut and stem from the old and replace with the new. it must be the same brand or it won't fit..

so thats a sweated on one ??? This looks like it threaded on...I may just leave it alone, it shuts off tight ....Is there just packing material under the nut or a rubber washer ??

ok i just took a mirror so I could see behind the valve, I do think its threaded on the chrome c...Do they still make these so I could just unthread and replace or should i just keep this one ?

Buy a new brass craft stop and just replace the stem and packing.

??? whacha talkin bout Lemon

Your valve.the guts of it.most often brass craft and simply replacing the front side works.post a picture?

i did post a pic above, are you sayng to buy a new stop and take the guts out to replace this one ?? This one shuts off fine now I just wondered if there is packing under the nut or a washer ?

sorry saw the 1/4 turn but did not think that was what you had.they do not stem replace or often fail to turn off.be careful to inspect after opening so no o-ring drip appears on this type.Please do operate this type more often to insure it does.

mine is NOT 1/ turm its a multi turn, again, does this have packing under the packing nut ?

sorry cave you have lost me now.the picture is most certainly of a 1/4 turn stop.

look at MY pic not the other posters pic..mine is a photobucket link and it has a round knob and is a multi turn, here it is again, click the link

[i147.photobucket.com]

cvc, some have packing under the nut, some have a rubber washer with a metal ring.

Give us a picture from the side. The way you took that photo does NOT show us the connection, although it appears to be a 1/2" chrome nipple with a screwed on stop. I hope this is not going to be another one of those foot long postings that discuss it to death before anything is done.



Edited 1 times.

A new stop, from ANY company, will NOT have the stem and packing nut to fit his valve.

Hj, that's how I keep you on your toes
Pic coming

Ignore Lemon's advice, because it will NOT work for your valve. I could remove and replace the valve faster than I could write one of these answers telling you HOW to do it.

They ALWAYS have a packing of some kind, otherwise they would never stop leaking.

quote; the picture is most certainly of a 1/4 turn stop.

If you say that, then I have to ask, "Have you EVER seen a 1/4 turn stop?".

It is still a "packing" which is compressed by tightening it.

HJ, here is the side pic best I can do with my phone..It does look like there is a partal thread showing...so if this is a threaded on stop

1) is it a 3/8 fip x 3/8 compression ? of 1/2" fip

2) at this point it now shuts off fine and is dry should I leave it alone ?

3) IF I do chg it I assume I need to hold the chrome stub out somehow whats the best way without marring it all up ?

4) also if this is my set up how is the oppisite end attached to the water line ?? Are they sweated inside the wayy to the copper supply or is there a threaded fitting ? Just curious as to how they were made.

5) or can I just take the pack nut off and remove the stem and replace the washer and packing ?

I wont let this post go over 75 replies

thx HJ

forgot pic
[i147.photobucket.com]

hj ?

1. Normally, it would be a 3/8" chrome nipple, but we have nothing to compare it with to tell if it is 1/2".

2. If you wish to.

3. All it needs is a bit of resistance, so a wrench or pliers would do it without grabbing it so tight that it leaves marks.

4. BOTH ends would be screwed in

5. You will NEVER find a replacement valve which has the same mechanism.

nag, nag, nag. I was counting to see if a reply would be #71, or not.



Edited 1 times.

sorry Grandpa

But I probably could find the washer and packing right ?

Those would be generic products available at most hardware stores.

........ and the beat goes on and on and on and on and on and on and on and on ........

it's a fr#&%ing angle stop, not a rocket to the stars !

fix it or pay someone to fix it, but, like the mastercard ad spoof, stop leaning on the intercom



==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.

I like to find out the best way to change something BEFORE just doing it to avoid breaking something



Edited 1 times.

cvc, it's hard to tell if that is threaded or not. i looks it to me but i have never seen one screwed on so tight it buried the threads.
i'm guessing it is 3/8 and it is threaded. as someone else said, use two wrenchs and try unscrewing it. it is brass and should not be that difficult to remove.

yea there is like 1-1/2 thread showing im im pretty sure it is..again I probably should leave well enough alone because it does shutoff and doesnt leak...That packing nut is pretty tight.
I think it was just stuck because noone had used it for so long and it was backed out tight to the stop..I usually leave them turned in a little...

use two wrenches and attempt to unscrew

possibilities:

1. comes off easy .... 'good to go'

2. pipe is actually Cu tube .... cut it and use a compression stop

3. chrome npt nipple 'crushes' .... use GOOD basin wrench to unscrew from fitting in wall

4. call plumber .... spend $75-100

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

quote; GOOD basin wrench to unscrew from fitting in wall

And what basin wrench has teeth good enough to grab a chrome pipe nipple? If there is enough pipe to grab with a basin wrench, a pipe wrench will do it also.



Edited 1 times.

an 'older' 18" Ridgid basin wrench w/ good jaws and a little plaster WILL grab chrome

? like to borrow mine ? along with the Armstrong stock and the 'split' lead lined couplings and the Parmalee wrenches and the strap wrenches ?

the reason i said basin wrench is to avoid any lateral 'torquing' and possible damage inside wall

are we still in BB mode?

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

I have a set of vice grips with rubber hose over the jaws that should work. I guess it will work as long as hercules didn't put it on with ocktite