I need to position the tub drain but I want to avoid opening the slab any further. The picture below in green is the slab, in red is the original CI drain, and in blue is the new PVC pipes. Can I put in a trap then turn the pipe backwards as shown here to position it to exactly where I need it to be, or do I have to cut the slab further back the expose more of the CI drain so I can have enough room to put the trap in such that the pipe comes straight up?

Maybe neither. What kind of tub drain are you using?

I have not yet decided. All I have is the rough in location of the 1-1/2" pipe. I asked in another thread and consensus seem to be the Gerber drain so I think I might go with that.

You can come out of the trap with a st.45, then another 45 to swing the inlet of the trap to the correct location. You've got to have some depth available or you'll find the hub of the last 45 is higher than your waste tee.

it is done frequently either way.

If you used an ips glue together push/pull, you could bring the drain straight up and run a longer piece from the shoe to the tee and offset the overflow to fit the back of the tub. That's assuming the drain will not be underneath the tub.



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hj I do not understand what you said...

My tub is a Kohler K-1357-GLA tub, 32" wide x 60" long. The rough in guide is here:

[www.us.kohler.com]

The old bathtub was smaller, and I had the plumber move the new drain to 16" from the wall and 58-3/4" from the far wall. He moved it.

I didn't know how he did it but I wanted to know how deep the pipe is so I dug it up and this is what I saw.



It is quite deep. But he used two 90 degree elbows to swing it into position instead of 45s. I am thinking I need to change it. I did not see it originally because he covered the hole with dirt after he finished and all I saw was the part extended out.

Should I change it to two 45 degree elbows? I think I should.

I would change it. Like HJ said, you can make the offset in the overflow pipe instead of the trap riser. Meaning you'll put the 2 45's above the waste tee instead of below it. Either way I would get rid of those 2 90's.

i wonder why he didnt just swing the trap back. looks like it would end up in just about the perfect spot

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What does "swing the trap back" mean?

Rotate it around the glue joint, but there are many ways it could be done, that one probably being one of the worst ones. The question being, if the new tub is longer than the old one, why is the drain offset in the wrong direction?



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The new tub is longer, but the old tub was closer to the left wall. My new tub would be flushed against a new half wall to the right so even it's longer the drain is still further to the right.

But I don't really remember exactly where the old drain was. He cut the CI portion all of that PVC portion was added by him. So the trap going left and then come back around on two elbows why he did that I have no clue I supposed may be he made some mistake and ran out of parts and try to make the best contraption he can?

I think I need to cut all the way back almost to the CI and the redo the trap seems there is room to do it right instead of the forward backward deal with the extra elbows.

That would be the best way. But as I said earlier, if your were to use a glue together drain, which does not have the operating lever in the overflow plate, you could just come up from the trap wherever it was, use a longer piece between the tub and the tee, and then use 45's to offsest the overflow into position.

That would be the best way. But as I said earlier, if your were to use a glue together drain, which does not have the operating lever in the overflow plate, you could just come up from the trap wherever it was, use a longer piece between the tub and the tee, and then use 45's to offset the overflow into position. Regardless, because of the way it was done, you will still have to cut the trap out and redo it.

I see.

I did not know that before. I have seen those tub waste kit and always assumed for those the overflow and drain and everything must be in perfect alignment.

So if I use a glue together system, then it will be all PVC and the offset (lateral or longitudinal), as long as it does not get under the tub itself, could be accommodated above grade and I never even have to break the slab in the first place. All I would lose is the lever to lift the drain which I don't like anyways.

The plumber told me back then I had to break slab because he said it's better to use PVC so I agreed and he did what we are looking at now.

One last question. He used a 2" pipe for the trap and then reduced to 1-1/2" on the riser. I assume this is a good idea less chance of clogging?

It's the way I always do it. Makes it easier to snake if it does clog up.