Merry Christmas everyone.

A few months ago I got some great advice from Packy and Redwood and ended up with a plumbing diagram that the inspector liked.
[i45.photobucket.com]
I did the underslab plumbing portion and got that inspected with no problems. I have since framed the house, put the roof on, hung all the window and doors and finished the siding. I had the well drilled and the pipe from the well and pressure tank are in. I am starting back in on the plumbing. Here is the original diagram and here are pictures of the work in progress.


Any comments on what has been done so far would be appreciated. I am certainly not too proud to rip out sections and redo it if what I have done is incorrect.
[i45.photobucket.com]
[i45.photobucket.com]
I have a question with regard to venting. The horizontal drain coming off the shower is 7 ½ ft from the trap to the wye (labeled in the plumbing diagram. The IRC says the vent can not run horizontal until it is 6” above the flood line for the shower unless that is not possible.
There is no wall I can bring the vent up directly. What I would like to do is the following:
[i45.photobucket.com]
Use a saniT rolled up at about a 45° angle where the vent is shown in the diagram. Continue the vent until it is about 4” above the shower horizontal drain line then run horizontally for about 4 ft (sloped at ¼” per foot then go vertical again and tie into the other vent about 5 feet above the shower base. Is this OK? Does anyone have any other suggestions?

I also have some supply questions. I am attaching a diagram of my proposed supply plumbing.
[i45.photobucket.com]
There are several things that complicate it. I have a solar hot water heater, and 80 gallon tank with heat exchanger that feeds a 40 gallon indirect storage tank heated by the boiler. I plan on using pex on everything except the solar loop which has to be copper (and the T+P outlet plumbing). I got a taco mixing valve because the water from the solar tank can potentially be as high as 160°F

I would like to be able to use just the solar tank in the summer so I added a bypass for the indirect tank.

Does this seem ok? How can I improve on this setup?

PS I am not installing the boiler or any of the gas lines.

Thanks and happy holidays,

Eric Anderson

use a "Y" for the shower vent. also put a cleanout tee in the shower line.
your water piping looks OK to me. put some ball valves on the hot and cold feed to the mano-bloc.
superstor makes a water heater with 2 coils . one coil from the solar panel. one coil from the boiler . alot simpler than 2 tanks.
[www.htproducts.com]
last thought.. if you keep the vent for the shower 2" and bring it up the wall behind the lav, you can tie the lav waste into it and have a wet vent. then the horizontal portion of the shower vent will be washed clean by the lav.
this is perfectly fine in mass but run it by your inspector.

Eric, Looking nice so far.
I'd go with Packy's suggestion and run it by the inspector.
He should be fine with it.

The superstor tank he mentioned is some top notch stuff.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Since 1995 (3 years before Google started) PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor [www.PlumbingSupply.com]



Edited 1 times.

i am in total agreement with packy and redwood

- - - - - - -

PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

Whats the length of the standpipe for the washing machine? Here in NC it has to be at least 24" tall.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
Here is a picture of the vent arrangement (not glued yet). I know I will have to fiddle with the lengths once I actually glue it.
[i45.photobucket.com]
Packy, I thought about your suggestion to wet vent the shower with the lav. The way the layout is, I don’t think I can make it work Here is a picture of the bathroom.
[i45.photobucket.com]
The shower drain is about 7 ft from the lav. Does this make sense? I want the shower to wash and vent the toilet.
the picture is looking from the shower base straignt ahead to the toilet location with the lav off to the right
As far as using a single tank with 2 heat exchangers, I thought about it when I was planning the system last year. Most of the solar guys I talked to recommended using 2 separate tanks 80 gallon solar to a 40 gallon indirect as the most efficient arrangement if you want gas backup. I bought a kit for the solar that has everything except the copper pipe from AET. The tank is sitting in my basement already. It is private labeled, but AET tech support said it was made by Rheam so it should be OK (I hope).

NC plumber, the stand pipe is 24” reg here is 18-42”


Here is a picture of the house after I finished the siding You can see the solar collector on the roof.
[i45.photobucket.com]
Hope everyone has a great new year

Thanks again,
Eric

unless i'm looking at it wrong,(after you have drilled thru a couple of joists) a long swep 90 on that shower vent ought to bring it right up in the wall behind the lav. (isn't that where the vent is headed for) just put a san tee into the vent (at 19" off finish floor)and use it to drain the lav.
you are doing a fine job.
put a cleanout tee in the shower drain pipe.
remember, plenty of hangers and plenty of cleanouts and the inspector will love it..

from the picture looking into the room,it looks like you could run the vent up in the side wall. a sweep,a san-t a trap and jump up in the wall. you could tie back in the attic.what am i missing? oh an end of line co is nice