I have another unconventional question. Does anybody have any ideas on where to find an overflow/tub stopper for a custom tile soaking tub I am (re)building. The tile installers failed on this job, and the tub leaked, so it is being redone, and now is a good opportunity to redo the stopper/overflow. The drain is approx. 16" from the drain wall, and the height from the bottom of the tub to the overflow is 34". In addition, the drain is built with a "Kerdi-drain" for waterproofing, which complicates the plumbing. All walls are approximately 1 1/2 thick and the floor is approx. 2 to 2 1/2.
The original tub drain/stopper used a toe-tap drain, with the only problem being the water weight in the filled tub kept the toe-tap from fully opening, resulting in a slooooow drain. I saw and purchased a "cable-driven" stopper from Lowes with the idea of retrofitting it (putting in a longer cable, for one), but I am running into problems with making the sealed compartments work with the tile thicknesses. I guess I could get longer screw drives for the mechanism as well, and just set it back more.
Any thoughts?

Thanks

Check out our sponsors waste and over flows for tubs,/search\under waste and over flow ,they show a model good to forty five inch depth with a grill cover,plunger seal on the waste tee.that sounds like your best bet.Good Luck.www.plumbing supply .com the tub seals that use a rubber flat gasket under the lift part at the drain all seem to fail when the water try's to move past them.

You may have an impossible situation. Normally that type of tub uses a "Roman tub" drain without an overflow, or the overlow is pipe connected to the drain's riser. A regular waste and overflow has NO provision for sealing to any safety pan, Kerdi or otherwise, nor does it have the underfloor weep/drain openings a pan requires. How do you plan to make the overflow mechanism work in a wall that thick?



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As stated before, I already made it work; unfortunately the tile installers failed in their waterproofing. I essentially built the overflow as normal, tying into the drain line. Once the Kerdi-drain was installed I glued a female threaded bushing to the inside of the drain, poured epoxy around it to fill the cone shaped depression (to eliminate any standing water) and screwed the toe-tap fitting into the bushing. The trick with the overflow was partly because of the wall thickness and partly the waterproofing. Obviously it is the waterproofing membrane, and not the tile, that is waterproof, so I found a flanged PVC fitting that had male threads on one end. The flange was installed flush to the tile backerboard and the waterproofing membrane lapped over the flange. Once installed I simply elbowed down with the overflow line and tied into the drain. The overflow trim was installed on top of the tile.
I would like to add that the waterproofing was tested before tile was set -- a helper grouted the tub on a weekend and the thought is that he might have cleaned out out the grout joints with a utility knife, piercing the membrane. Pictures of the tub can be seen at toddlebackcarpentry.com.

Thanks,
Todd

This one?



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That's the one. Although when it is redone it will be about 2/3 the size.

Your original posting said that you were using a cable driven waste and overflow, not a tap toe one like this posting indicates. Gluing the membrane to the fitting may not make a permanently waterproof joint. The proper way is for the membrane to be clamped between two parts of the drain fitting, and your method did not do that. Therefore, a leak could be caused by a failure of the less than correct sealing method around the drain.

Will she also be downsized to 2/3 original?

Actually, the original tub used a toe-tap drain glued into the Kerdi-drain, which is specifically designed to be waterproofed over (although it is mostly used in shower locations, as the standard Kerdi-drain comes with a grate-style drain) in tiled locations. Since the Kerdi-drain was the best choice to use in this situation I had to make the toe-tap work with it (note that the toe-tap is actually inside the drain "cone", so even if there was leakage it would be drained out). I posted this to try and find out if there was an alternative the toe-tap, and have been considering retrofitting a cable-driven drain system to make it work.

Hey Todd,

I have no idea when this thread was started, or if you'll ever get this message. But, hey. I'm also endeavoring an ambitious Schluter-based tile roman tub with an overflow over the wall of the tub into a trench drain on the other side. Since mine is going into a 60"x30" shower stall, I'm using an acrylic shower base to allow me to use a regular shower drain (as opposed to your retrofitting the kerdi drain with epoxy).

Here's the part you might find (have found?) useful: I decided on a "lift and turn" style roman tub drain, because I was worried that the cable drain might snap over time, and the toe-push things kinda suck. I found these:

California Faucets 9237-sn
Westbrass D320-07
Jones Stephens D40002

Cheers!



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