I have a toilet that I had to use an allen wrench set of increasing sizes to get out the mineral deposits. This is where the water exits from about 30 holes under the seat when you flush the toilet. I didnt want to use the next bigger size allen wrench because it seemed to take to much force, so I didnt want to break the toilet.I used 3 sizes of allen wrenches,the 4th seemed a bit to large. Do you plumbers know of a tool similar to a file for this ? or what about a chemical to dissolve the minerals? or both. The toilet flushes better now, but I would like to clear out as many deposits as I can. Thank You

I use a piece of coathanger wire. The mineral deposits would cause wear on the allen wrench and hate worn out allen wrenches...

You could use CLR or if in a well ventilated area like out side use muriatic acid. Use proper PPE!

Sometimes you just might want a new toilet...
May I suggest a Toto Drake...

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Since 1995 (3 years before Google started) PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor [www.PlumbingSupply.com]

thanks redwood, whats does ppe mean ? is clr that calcium,lime,rust liguid that you can buy ?
I dont like new toilets because they clog easier and they only use 1.6 gallons of water. I think its good to use sufficent water to get everything out to the street.
Clr is made of water, lactic acid, gluconic acid, glycolic acid, sulfamic acid, citric acid, and surfactants,Acording to the jelmar website (they make clr).
the main componenets are 70% water, 15% lactic acid and 3% gluconic acid.
I know that muriatic acid is 30% hydrochloric acid.
Would concentrated sulfic acid work ?
or what about concentrated vinegar ?
Or what about thrift drain cleaner, which is an alkali ?
Im sure one danger from chemicals is the intense heat they may produce which can break a ceramic toilet. And the fumes can be very unhealthy. Lord help the person who mixes an acid to an alkali. lol

Sulphuric acid is useless against scale in a toilet. Muriatic acid works best as long as you add it to the water in the toilet, and not the other way around. A side benefit is that as it accumulates in the toilet it also clears the jet and trapway which are probably also fouled if the rim holes are. A coat hanger into the holes and then wobble/wiggled around clears the holes just fine.

thank you H J

Actually as far as replacement toilets go...

The first generation of 1.6 GPF toilets was pretty horrible.
If you installed one there was a plunger beside it in vrtually no time at all.

A few years back a company named Toto brought a toilet to the US called the Drake. This toilet flushed very well with 1.6 GPF and all the other companies went back to the drawing board with their engineers putting in overtime to copy the design of the Toto Drake.

Actually there are toilets out there now that are meeting the new HET standard that flush better than your toilet with only 1.1 - 1.28 GPF...
Times have changed and so have the toilets.

See the MaP report linked below in my auto signature.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Since 1995 (3 years before Google started) PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor [www.PlumbingSupply.com]

hi redwood, i still say that a toilet needs 3.5 gallons to do a clean flush and get everything to the street or the septic tank '
, This is extra important if its only a 3 inch pipe all the way to the street,(which is rare),or if its a long distance to the street (3 or 4 inch pipe). But if the toilet is being used for urine only then i say 1-2 quarts of water is more then enuff.

also ,cast iron has more friction then pvc pipe.
Then if there is a dip in the pipe in the yard (like a mini trap)then im sure that a 1.6 gallon toilet will end up cloging that pipe up in time.

If the homeowner does laundry 1-2 times a week then that will surely help keep the main pipe flushed out good .Unless they have a water saver laundry machine, ha ha ,
But the new 1.6 gallon toilets also have smaller pipes built into them , which means that less water and waste can travel thru the toilet , which can make it easier for the toilet to clog up.

the average homeowner cant afford a toto toilet. plus its still 1.6 gallons.

No matter how you slice it and dice it ,a 1.6 gallon versus a 3.5 flush toilet will never compare.

Oddly enuff , the label on my new boxed 3.5 gallon toilet (in my shed) says its a water saver. but its been in my shed for 15 years. what were toilets before 3.5 gallons ? what were they before that ?....5 gallons, 7 gallons or what ? ,

but i still want to know about the chemicals referred to, a few post above,(in this same thread), and any other ways to remove as many minerals from a toilet as possible, (mechanical and or chemical. thanks again everyone in here for your help.

This is extra important if its only a 3 inch pipe all the way to the street,(which is rare),or if its a long distance to the street (3 or 4 inch pipe).

1. Because of flow velocities a 3" pipe will work better with the low flow toilets.
2. Around here a 3" sewer to the street is the normal thing, regardless of the distance.
3. The only time we install a 4" pipe is when the house has 4 or more toilets, and then the 4" starts at the junction of the fourth toilet.
4. Our 1.6 gpf toilets and sewers work just as well as when we used 3.5 gpf ones. Mine are 9 years old and have never had any problems, and my customers are the same way.
5. Our sewer problems are caused by tree roots, not a 1.6 gpf toilet.

PPE is Personal Protective Equipment. The requirements will be listed on the label or MSDS sheet for the product selected.

CLR is a name of a product for calcium/lime/rust removal.

Muriatic Acid will remove the calcium/lime build up also and not harm the bowl. PPE is needed and ventilation for safety reasons.

Contrary to your beliefs there are many low flow toilets that work. They do work quite well when you select the right ones. It is really not the toilet that carries the waste to the sewer even in a 3.5 gpf toilet. the system relies on other water usage to stay clean...

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Since 1995 (3 years before Google started) PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor [www.PlumbingSupply.com]

If you truly believe in your concept of the 3.5 gallon flush and wish to support your toilet. Consider removing your toilet and having it chemically cleaned and flushed. Once all the foreign debris has been removed, consider installing a new fill valve and flush valve. At the end you will have a restored toilet which is almost new and uses 3.5 gallons for another decade.


Best Wishes