We just moved into a condo. I removed the ugly green tile floor in the bathroom and replaced it with some non-stick laminate flooring. After that we realized our toilet flange sticks up out of the ground, and is tilted and twisted. This explains why the toilet was rocking.

If you look at it from ground level from the front, it sticks up about 1 inch off the ground on one side and about 1.5 inches on the other side. I don't know too much about toilets but I know this isn't the way it's supposed to be.

Now I am wondering what the easiest fix is:

1. Do I cut off the top of the flange with a cutting tool and make it flush with the finished floor, then screw in a new thin metal flange, in addition to a wax ring or something? (the problem with this particular solution is that the metal flange screws would barely make it into the concrete at the edge of the hole in the ground around the toilet). (p.s. really don't want to do this)

2. Do I just use a wax ring and push the toilet down really hard and hope the wax makes up for the difference in the tilt? (crossing fingers that this is an ok choice.)

3. Use a marble slab and a wax ring to make up for the large space and the tilt?

4. Something else? Such as, call a professional or a suggestion from you fine folks?...

Thanks in advance!!!!

Without being there or seeing pics its hard to tell you what to do. You need this to happen. The old flange removed. A new flange glued in. Anchor the flange to the floor. level the floor around the toilet. I use nail-drive lead anchors to anchor to concrete. You drill a 1/4 hole and then slip the lead anchor with built in nail into the hole and drive the nail in. They hold super tight and are not removable. The flange should be level or close to it. Use solid brass closet bolts. Hydraulic quick setting cement works well to fill in voids and level floors around toilets. It pours like water then expands when it sets you can mix it as thick or as thin as you need it. Work quick it will set-up under water. Post pics if you can for better help. get all veiws and measurments

Lets see a picture so we can figure this one out.

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tell us what the pipe and flange are made of. PVC, copper, cast iron etc.

lead?

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I doubt it in a condo

Britt you might be surprised how many old apartments turn into condo's in a place where they don't have Cat 5 hurricanes to clean them away every few years.

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The stuff built back then dont get blown away. Now those @#$%& that build on the water down here.......they cry everytime it rains or the wind blows. I ask all the time "what did you expect to happen" And guess what......they are building it right back and its not if it will happen again its when.

If it is really that high, then there is nothing that will make it better other than raising the toilet, (a handyman looking repair), or replacing the flange with a properly set one. What is the flange made out of?

Wow... you guys are fast!!!

I will post some pics as soon as I can, probably tonight.

Also it looks like the solution is going to be the most labor intensive one. Who would've guessed?...

The pipe is made of PVC and the opening is 3" wide. It's glued in and is definitely not going to be pulled out by hand or with average tools (it's in there strong!!). So I am thinking I need to cut it away with a cutter, pour concrete as mentioned, put on a new low-lying flat metal flange and bolt it to the newly poured concrete, then install the toilet as if the flange was perfect from the start.

p.s. Also just want to clarify that there are no hurricanes in Cincinnati OH. Although there have been a number of tornadoes. There is also a high pollen count, if you care to know, and my allergies are starting to drive me crazy.

yes it is going to be labor intensive. you will need to cut the old flange off, install a coupling and install a new flange. if your current flange is glued on the inside of the pipe your pipe is 4" if it is glued on the outside of the pipe, the pipe is 3".

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

Here are the pictures of my problem, let me know what I need to do. Thanks again for all of your help!!

FlangeFrontTopView


FlangeAerialView


FlangeFloorLevelView


ConcreteGap




Here are some things that I bought that I can work with. Obviously I can also buy new supplies if I need to. Let me know if any of the following will work.

MetalFlatFlange


BrassShortFlange


3inchPVCFlangeBottom


3inchPVCFlange

with that rag stuffed into the old flange, we cannot tell how it is installed. Personally, if you cut the flange off and used those metal rings, I cannot see how it would be any different than if you just screwed the toilet directly to the floor. Right now you cannot use either of the plastic flanges because you do not have the old one removed so you can see what would fit.

My bad. I didn't even think to take a picture of how it is connected. I can just tell you that it is glued. Right now the flange is 3 inches thick and it's 3 inches all the way down the tube, as opposed to a 3 inch flange stuck inside a 4 inch tube. However if you look at it from the side it looks like the flange is stuck "into" a larger PVC pipe (4 inch?). This may just be a coupler that I am seeing that holds the two pieces together.

So bottom line, I am gonna have to cut the flange out regardless of the solution I use? My question is, how do I cut the pipe out that is down in the hole? Should I chisel it somehow? What if I take out too much or can't quite take out enough?

Also, what's wrong with just bolting the toilet to the ground, essentially?

Thank you all again!!



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it looks like it is glued inside the pipe. just pray there is enough pipe between the closet bend and the flange so that you can get a coupling on the pipe and install a new pvc flange with stainless steel ring (not pvc or regular steel). actually there is nothing wrong with bolting the toilet to the floor but you still need a flange or you may end up with floor damage after a little time.

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

put a level on your floor -- it's possible the flange is at an angle because tile man leveled his work. (never assume)

The only difference between screwing the toilet to the floor, and screwing one of those flanges to the floor and attaching the toilet to it, is that the latter way gives you TWO places that can leak. Above and below the flange because the flange is not attached to the pipe.

If the floor is that far off level, then if he wants to know where the kids are, just look for them at the downhill wall, where they stopped rolling.



Edited 1 times.

Alright, well thank you all so much for all the great advice. I think I have enough now to do the job right. I'll try to stop in and let everyone know how it went.

Cheers!

DLH gave some important advice above!

"Install a new pvc flange with stainless steel ring (not pvc or regular steel)."

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More important advice would be to install the toilet so it doesn't leak, then you don't have to worry about what the ring is made of.

I believe that goes without saying!

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i ran plumbing once for a contractor that was redoing a house that was 7" out of level over 30ft. noticed that my drain runs were staying parelle with floor joist, even thought they were properly pitched, so put my level on joists; wow! started talking with lead carpenter who told me how far out entire house was and that it was still sinking! the contractor had the carpenter run the fireplace mantle as well as some bookcases out of plumb so your eye wouldn't pick up how out of level everything was. it was like being in one of those six flags haunted houses; all the door openings in the same plane as the pitch were paraellagrams (sp?). topper was that the carpenter would have to shave a 1/4" off the front door top every week just to get the door to close so they could lock up. i was amazed to get paid in full at end of job by that contractor crook (guess he knew subs could cause real trouble for him with future buyers since he was doing work for resale. it was certainly a learning experience.
that's why when i see stuff like that toilet flange red flags go up.

you can tell it is just the flange that is crooked not the floor or walls

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

i'm not necessarily seeing that from pics. owner removed tile yet didn't notice flange being so far off level till tile was removed, so it seemed worth a 30 second check with a level to catch a potentially big problem.

not to many people are going to hold the camera that crooked in that many shots even if the floor isnt level.

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Sounds like some of those "Flip this House" "contactors", the ones doing the flipping, not the subs who are getting beat down to do it at rock bottom prices, or doing it for the experience.