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Author:
randy (CA)
how do i connect?the pvc sch40 is loose fitting
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Author:
hj (AZ)
If you clean the hub real good, you may find a "donut" that works. I would have put a short piece of cast iron in with a lead joint, and then tranisitioned that to the ABS.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
I have pounded and caulked lead wool many times and the only thing I ended up with was compressed lead wool, which still looked like lead wool, not melted and poured lead.
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Author:
jerco (MD)
I was told, by the old timers, that it was the heat from the melted lead that released the oil in the oakum that made the seal.
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Author:
packy (MA)
that's not my understanding. the oakum is tightly packed and the lead locks it in place. the water hits the oakum, swells it and this makes the seal.
when we used to test a soil pipe job with water, we always filled the system the night before. there were usually a few leaks. in the morning, magically, the leaks were gone.
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Author:
jerco (MD)
You know what Packy, that makes a lot of sense to me. They used to use oakum between the wood planks on boats right, and I don't think they heated it to make it expand (can you say fire hazard) and make a seal but simply dropped into the water. I guess our old timers weren't exactly rocket scientists.
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Author:
jjbex (IL)
I would use a donut type gasket or a PVC soil adapter. I don't like make lead joints using bald pipe. the oakum has a tendency to get pushed past the hub into the pipe, because there is no lip on the baldy.
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"You can't get there from here"
Berry/Buck/Mills/Stipe
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Can't happen if the pipe is cut square and is sitting on the bottom of the hub.
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Author:
jjbex (IL)
In that situation, it might be ok. I have had problems when it's a short piece of pipe with no weight to keep it in place.
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"You can't get there from here"
Berry/Buck/Mills/Stipe
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Author:
hj (AZ)
I wouldn't try to pour a lead joint around plastic anyway. The heat would melt and soften the pipe, then caulking it would just collapse it rather than tightening the joint.
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