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- over 420,000 Posts - PlumbingForum.com -
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Author:
Anonymous User
I'm a maintenance mechanic so I don't work with this stuff to often so I'm looking for some advice. We are trying to install 10" PVC pipe for large hot water parts washers at our shop. The pipe vents the warm air (120 deg F) from the cabinets of the washers. I had it installed but used the wrong glue (blue) and some of the joints failed and the pipe fell apart. I have the right glue now and some new pipe and elbows. The big problem we were having (besides the wrong glue) was pushing the elbows on. We are working out of a man lift and the schedule 40 pipe is heavy and slippery. Is there anything I can do to make these fittings go on without beating on them? Will the grey glue stay soft long enough to get the pipe positioned and assembled? Thanks!
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Author:
Dunbar (KY)
Put glue and cleaner in the fridge for a couple hours before you use it.
They make different setting times for the glue. If your using fast-setting, this will make it hard to put joints together.
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Author:
westchester plumber
You need to use the correct primer and glue for the application.
Depending on the location of the piping you're working with, you may want to prefab on the floor, then hoist it up to be placed into position.
When working with large diameter piping it helps to have a pulling tool to prevent PVC fitting push out. The tools could be pricey.
Extra workers on the job help tremendously.
Good Luck. *westchester plumber*
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Author:
Anonymous User
thanks for the quick response! can you tell me more about the tools to pull the pipe and fittings together?
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Author:
Anonymous User
I've got Oatey purple primer and the guy at my supply house said the grey glue he sold me was the right stuff and the label said it was for larger pipe. 4" or larger I think. I'll check tis again. Thank you.
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Author:
westchester plumber
I believe the brand name on the one that we have is Reed or (Read?), I'm not positive.
Good Luck. *westchester plumber*
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Author:
Anonymous User
Thanks again! I'm going to surf around and see if I can locate one. Us old guys need all the help we can get. That big pipe is just to hard to handle safely working out of a lift. We have been tying it off with rope and getting what hangers we could on it and trying to push and pull it together. Even tried to push a vertical section up into a fitting using the lift basket- lifted the entire run of pipe and the joint only went together about 2". Fun stuff!
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Author:
Wheelchair
10" schedule 40 pvc, eh? Working temperature of 120 degrees, eh?
Check the stencil markings on the side of the schedule 40 piping. 79 degrees?
Schedule 40 pvc solvent is available in several different settings. Fast, Medimum and Slow set.
Working by yourself is most difficult when handling 10 pvc. Be extremely careful, especially off ground.
Let us know how it works out...
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Author:
jjbex (IL)
I am working for a water park contractor. we use up to 14" schedule 80 PVC. I deal with this stuff constantly. Bevel the leading edge of the pipe, we use a router, and make sure both the hub and pipe are clean. The glue and primer we use comes in gallon cans with daubers the size of Italian Beef sandwiches. You can't use the quart size cans and little daubers for this. We use a little 3/4 ton chain comealong, with chains to wrap around the fittings, and the hook from the comealong into the end of the pipe to pull the pipe into the fitting. Make sure you mark the edge of the hub depth on the pipe, so you know when the pipe is home.
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Author:
Anonymous User
jjbex has got the wright idea, and wheelchair is correct about working temperature of pipe ,better rethink this one?
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Author:
Anonymous User
This is what the manufacturer of the parts washer specified, they sent the flanges and the extraction fan with the machines,. I was just guessing at the temp. these machines are like an extremely large dishwasher. They have a 300 gallon reservoir and a 55hp pump system that sprays hot water around inside the cabinet. The vent is a hole up at the top of the machine. Thank you very much for your response! very helpful!
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Author:
packy
a little tip. when you mark the hub depth on the pipe, mark the depth plus 1". that way the mark won't disappear into the fitting and anyone can see all the marks are 1" away from the hub..
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Author:
Anonymous User
thanks packy, thats one of the little things a non-plumber wouldn't think about untill its too late! Maybe that would let me know where the glue should stop when i'm putting it on the pipe.
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Author:
Anonymous User
I checked on the price of a pipe joiner and it would be over a thousand $. I want to use the come along method you described, but do you think i can pull on a 90 or 45 deg. fitting? Thanks
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Author:
Anonymous User
If you use the large brush or paint roller with primer and glue liberally you should not need a puller.Pre mark your turns at fittings,You must be quick to put joint together or glue will not stay fluid long.
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Author:
Anonymous User
thanks Gary for the tip,,,,,,
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Author:
hj
Personally I only use the blue glue. The gray glue is thick and causes a lot of friction while assembling the joints, and I have seen a lot of jobs have leaks in the joints after using it. The come-along method works best, but it is not instantaneous so you have to have it set up before you start assembling the joint.
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Author:
jjbex (IL)
The comealong will work on any joint. Just wrap a chain around the hub of the pipe. Leave enough slack so you can hook the comealong to it. Then hook the other end of the comealong to the end of the pipe, or wrap the chain around another fitting if you are sinking fittings together.
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Author:
scott howell (AL)
who is the manufacturer of the large brushes i have been looking for a easier way to appply glue too large pipe
bama plumber
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