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Author:
Buckeye5B (OH)
I recently had an inspection. I tested and retested multiple times. I didn't have any leaks. When it comes to test day we are having an extreme heat wave hear where temps were above 95 for several days in a row. I have been working with a plumber ( as a consultant). He tells me yes this can. The leaks I am referring to really aren't leaks they are keepers if even that. For example the inspector looked at one leak and said that was condensation, went off and checked other stuff then came back and said it was leaking. The other leak as he called it. I wiped it away and it literally took like a full minute for the leak to even show a droplet. All the other times I have tested and retested I never saw any leaks. So because of these two leaks he failed me. But I don't think he is taking in all things. Like the extreme heat and massive amount of condensation. I also told him I've had water in the lines for over an hour.Oh let me backupbfor a second on the day of my 1st test I was literally filling up my pipes and I think I was close to being done. When he came in the first day. He said I don't have time for you fill that up. He was very crude about it and he was early too by about 10 minutes. I didn't want my pipes filled with water for a long time. Then the next day I had water in my pipes for over an hour. Look first I understand why we have rules and etc. But this is extreme. You would never ever in a real scenario be worried about a drop or two of water if your pipes are filled you have way more serious issues to be dealing with. I've been told by my plumber to possibly ask for a reinspection by a different inspector and maybe wait for a cooler day so the extreme temps of the hot pipes and cold water doesn't shock them. Also I am not sure but they could charge me a fee of 100.00 just to reinspect. Also, another thing I hate is this county is known for being difficult to deal with. They aren't even in my county they are in union county and I am in a different county, I don’t think its right that my county hires out their inspections to another county and a county that is difficult tondeal with. What are your guys thoughts on this? Is my plumber giving me correct information and should I ask for another inspection?Water Supply & Treatment
I wrote this before talking to my plumbing consultant, this is what we came up with;
I've hired a plumbing consultant and we believe there were no leaks at the time of inspection except for the stand pipe at the washer box ( which we believe is a manufacturer defect in the box with the testing seal and the back of the box it appears there is a crack there). We believe due to the high heat and etc. This was condensation. We have tested and retested and found no weeps. BTW I believe there is a difference between "leaks" and "weeps" leaks are definitely bad. Weeps isn't as a big deal. BTW both my plumbing consultant and I also believe weeps aren't that big of deal, if your plumbing is working correctly you will never see a weep, a leak you will definitely notice.
Anyways, my plumbing consultant has advised me to ask me to speak to or write an email, to the plumbing authority of the county doing the inspection and ask them to wave the fees and do a reinspection with a different inspector. We believe the weather conditions played a major role in the inspection. We think its important to differentiate between condensation and a weep and what constitutes that as a weep and condensation. I know I remember he told me that he couldn't tell if that was a leak or condensation on the leak ( this was the inspector). Shouldn't he know the difference? Why should I have to go out of my way to prove this isn't a weep/ leak when he even said he wasn't sure.
I don't want to have issues with this plumbing inspection, but it sounds like to me after talking to the plumbing consultant that the inspector shouldn't have failed it if he didn't know what was condesation and what is leak. That is why we are going to require a reinspection from a different inspector. But we also want to make sure that the work that was already approved by the inspector, that the new inspector states that this isn't okay or new violations as that stuff has already been tested and inspected.
Thoughts?
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Author:
sum (FL)
What exactly is being inspected? DWV or supply lines? This is new construction or addition?
What kind of pipe materials! PVC, cast iron or copper?
My understanding is for a new section of DWV you plug a downstream point with a test plug/ball and fill the system to a specific height to let it sit a certain number of hours, inspectors won't wait for you to fill up.
A manufacturer defect in the washer box with a crack? Where is the crack? A crack in the standpipe is a plumbing issue and should be corrected, they really don't care why whether it's poor installation or manufacturer defect, it just need to be fixed.
Are the leak/weep happening at a joint? Or in the middle of a pipe! It really should be too difficult to tell if that's a leak from the inside or humidity condensation. Food coloring can always be added to the water for a positive test.
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Author:
Buckeye5B (OH)
What exactly is being inspected? DWV or supply lines! This is new construction or addition?
A Sorry dwv and supply
What kind of pipe materials! PVC, cast iron or copper?
Pvc
My understanding is for a new section of DWV you plug a downstream point with a test plug/ball and fill the system to a specific height to let it sit a certain number of hours, inspectors won't wait for you to fill up.
Ours is only supposed to be 15 minutes from what I unserstand.
A manufacturer defect in the washer box with a crack? Where is the crack? A crack in the standpipe is a plumbing issue and should be corrected, they really don't care why whether it's poor installation or manufacturer defect, it just need to be fixed.
No its the actual washer box itself. its weird. He said he wasn't really concerned with it. But I still want to fix it the best way possible.
Are the leak/weep happening at a joint? Or in the middle of a pipe! It really should be too difficult to tell if that's a leak from the inside or humidity condensation. Food coloring can always be added to the water for a positive test.
Well he said it at the joint. But I believe it is condesation. I remember him saying he didn't know whether it was condensation or not at one moment. Thus is why I think I need to ask for a different inspector.
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Author:
Buckeye5B (OH)
Btw thank you for your post. And thanks for the questions instead of just answering. I appreciate that very much. I have a hard time writing my thoughts down. My brain goes at 100mph all the time.
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Author:
Buckeye5B (OH)
Sorry I reread your post again. The food coloring is a great option. I never even thought about that. If I am able to schedule with a different inspector ( or even if it is the same) I will use the food coloring so there is absolutely no question and I'll show that to the inspector. Ur dead right on that.I can also add that in my email as well to let them know well in advance that is what I am going to do.
That is great advice. But I still believe I don't have any leaks.Regardless adding the dye will prove beyond a shadow of doubt. I shouldn't have to do that. But it makes it obvious.
Thanks!
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Author:
sum (FL)
When the inspector saw what he considered a leak, were you there and saw the same water on the pipe?
Unless there is a crack or hole on the pipe, water will not leak on a regular section of pipe, only at joints. On the other hand, if it's condensation, it should be on a general area of the pipe not just at joints.
If you fill up the pipes against using a garden hose just watch at the joints if you see so some water droplets use a tissue to dry it and watch it come back. A leak will bleed one or two drops out of a joint, run down the side and drop off the low point, a condensation will just form multiple drops in a general area, kind of like a skin rash if you will.
It is also possible for a leak to form only when a pipe is full. In other words, you could run a garden hose down a pipe with no test plug and it doesn't leak, but if you plug it downstream and fill it up completely it leaks, could be a weak spot on the top side of the pipe that doesn't leak unless pipe is full like in the case of a full blockage.
One way to get the pipe fill quickly is to use a hose. At the upstream point you typically have a drain and hot/cold supply lines. For example, take the washing machine cold supply and insert that into the stand pipe and turn it on to fill it, or at any faucet if you have a clean out nearby, take a dishwasher hose for example, connect to the cold side valve's 3/8" outlet and the other end stick into the clean out port, or a garden hose from the outside back into the house.
A competent inspector should be able to determine if it's a leak or condensation without any ambiguity.
Edited 3 times.
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Author:
Buckeye5B (OH)
When the inspector saw what he considered a leak, were you there and saw the same water on the pipe?
Yes but tbh I've never really done inspections to me it looked like condensation, but the pipes had condensation all over them like dripping all over them. I've repaired plenty of plumbing, but never did actual testing side of it.
Unless there is a crack or hole on the pipe, water will not leak on a regular section of pipe, only at joints. On the other hand, if it's condensation, it should be on a general area of the pipe not just at joints.
If you fill up the pipes against using a garden hose just watch at the joints if you see so some water droplets use a tissue to dry it and watch it come back. A leak will bleed one or two drops out of a joint, run down the side and drop off the low point, a condensation will just form multiple drops in a general area, kind of like a skin rash if you will.
Thats the thing you could wipe away the joints and it would take so long that you couldn't really tell if it was condensation or a tiny hole. I do remember the inspector saying that on one joint that he wasn't sure if that was a leak or condensation.
I think my issue was when I schedule the test I did it on one of the hottest weeks of year and it just made it difficult to tell. So, I guess thats a lesson learned I'll try to schedule on cooler days. I also want to go down and test and test and test some more to verify there are no leaks before calling and I will add food coloring to be sure myself as well.
It is also possible for a leak to form only when a pipe is full. In other words, you could run a garden hose down a pipe with no test plug and it doesn't leak, but if you plug it downstream and fill it up completely it leaks, could be a weak spot on the top side of the pipe that doesn't leak unless pipe is full like in the case of a full blockage.
One way to get the pipe fill quick besides is to use a hose. At the upstream point you typically have a drain and hot/cold supply lines. For example, take the washing machine cold supply and insert that into the stand pipe and turn it on to fill it, or at any faucet if you have a clean out nearby, take a dishwasher hose for example, connect to the cold side valve's 3/8" outlet and the other end stick into the clean out port, or a garden hose from the outside back into the house.
When I tested before I didn't have running water yet. I just 4 gallon jugs that I was dumping in to test. Which may be another area for improvement. But now I do have running water so it will be much easier to do. (on day of testing we did have running water as well)
A competent inspector should be able to determine if it's a leak or condensation without any ambiguity.
I agree completely, but I am really skeptical now after I know that the one joint that he said was a leak, he even himself was confused and said at first it was condensation, then changed his mind. Which is what I am going to argue for a new inspection with a new/different inspector.
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