Remodeling the laundry room and need to move this washer box over to the right about 12-15". The main line to the septic is under the basement slab. Pipe going up on the left is the vent which attaches to the main stack above all the fixtures. Hard to see in the pic but there is a condensate fitting on the horizontal piece between the washer trap and vent connection. The line is that black tube and the actual fitting is behind that stud.

What's the best way to move this? Do I leave the trap and use elbows to move the standpipe over to the new location? Or do I need to move the trap also? It seems like that condensate line would be better draining higher up into the vent stack or is it OK where it is? Washer drain is 2", vent is 1-1/2".

No issues with current config, but want to be code compliant.

I would use a dual outlet laundry box, with the washer drain pipe going straight down to a relocated trap. Put a wye
and 45* in the standpipe, to go to the second outlet in the box for the condensate.

Doesn't the trap for a clothes washer have to be 6 inches above the floor? I installed a new one a few years ago. That's what I read.

804.0 Indirect Waste Receptors.
804.1 Standpipe Receptors. Plumbing fixtures or other receptors receiving the discharge of indirect waste pipes shall be
approved for the use proposed and shall be of such shape and capacity as to prevent splashing or flooding and shall be located
where they are readily accessible for inspection and cleaning. No standpipe receptor for a clothes washer shall extend more
than 30 inches (762 mm), or not less than 18 inches (457 mm) above its trap. No trap for a clothes washer standpipe receptor
shall be installed below the floor, but shall be roughed in not less than 6 inches (152 mm) and not more than 18 inches (457
mm) above the floor. No indirect waste receptor shall be installed in a toilet room, closet, cupboard, or storeroom, or in a portion
of a building not in general use by the occupants thereof; except standpipes for clothes washers shall be permitted to be installed
in toilet and bathroom areas where the clothes washer is installed in the same room.



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So upon further inspection, the condensate line actually comes from the water softener, and it's programmed to backwash or something around 1:00 am every night. Sounds likes it's flushing, I never knew where the waste water was going until I pulled this wall off behind the laundry.

Not clear why I need a double outlet washer box. Would it work if I moved the box and trap and tapped the softener waste into the vent riser? I was thinking a fitting like this one.

If I was doing this I probably would do the following:

(1) Leave the vent in its current location, but cut the sanitary tee out to install a new one higher up. This is to allow a 2" cleanout to be inserted at the bottom of the sanitary tee. If you ever need to snake that line you need a full size CO access especially since you can't access from above with those tight 90 elbows. How far higher to move the tee will be determined by whether you are sitting the washer dryer on these pedestals people like to put in for front loaders.

(2) I would just go from the new tee to the relocated trap in the new bay at 1/4" per foot.

(3) I think the condensate drain should be connected upstream of the trap as an indirect drain. Doing it after the trap if that line ever dries up due to a malfunction or power outage you have sewer gas entering the pipe. If you connect it to the stand pipe it should work but I don't know if the stand pipe is filled with soap & sudsy water will it backwash into the condensate line? Is there a one way valve along that line? Is a running trap on that line something to consider.

Water softener drain can't be directly connected to a drain pipe. It needs to be connected through an airgap.

Thanks Steve, that makes sense, otherwise a backup could contaminate the water supply going thru the softener. The house was built in 1980 and this was behind a wall in the laundry room, so I'm guessing it's been like that for 45 years. Same issue with adding a cleanout @sum, unless I put an access panel there.

The wall with the washer box is getting closed back up (replacing 80's paneling with drywall), so a double outlet washer box would mean draping the softener hose where sweetie wants a folding table.

To the left of the framing is the equipment closet that houses the furnace, HW heater, softener, and expansion tank for the well pump. See revised photo below, could I cut into the washer vent and add a second standpipe/trap in the equipment closet? (Blue line in the pic, drawing is not my strong suit.) In addition to the softener drain, I could drain the reverse osmosis system in there as well.

Thanks to all for the guidance, washer box has successfully been moved.





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How long is the standpipe? Code is probably 30" maximum(18" minimum) and the trap 6" minimum above the floor.



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The washer box is 48" off the floor, the standpipe is 44" from the bottom of the box to the trap entry. Trap sits about 3/8" off the floor. The washer box is at the same height as before, the trap is a little higher to allow for the 1/4" per ft. slope of the trap arm. Previous trap was actually indented into the concrete, looked like they poured the floor after the trap was installed.

Same measurements as previous washer box, so I'm going with I'm grandfathered in....

Seriously, I didn't have a lot to work with, see pic below. That's concrete splattered all over the pipe and it wasn't chipping off easily. I wasn't sure if I would be able to get a new fitting on if I cut below the existing tee to make the pipe taller, and I wasn't keen on jackhammering the slab to get below the concrete.

The alternative would have been to raise the trap and turn down to meet the existing tee, but I didn't want to create an S trap. We've been in the house 5 years and have not any issues with clogs or trap siphoning, so if it ain't broke...