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Author:
Stumped in PA (PA)
We are stumped. For the past 6 or 7 years, our water, from a well, spits and sputters something terrible in July and August, yes, just July and August. We've had our pump changed (let me tell you, pulling that sucker 275 feet was a chore), the water level has been checked multiple times, never lower than the pump. Last year, the plumber said it was it was perfect when he checked it. This year we've had so much rain, it shouldn't be an issue either. The pressure tank was changed last year as well, just on the off chance that it was the problem. Our lines were checked, no leaks. We are over $3500 in with plumbers the past couple of years and no one can tell us what the issue is. Any thoughts on what else we can check? I'm so worried that at some point, it's going to damage something.
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Author:
packy (MA)
i'm a city boy and know very little about wells..
has anyone suggested surging the well?
from the internet...
Surging a well is a well development technique that involves repeatedly raising and lowering a surge block or plunger within the well to create a pressure differential, forcing water in and out of the formation and dislodging sediment and debris. This process helps to improve the well's yield and efficiency by cleaning the well screen, gravel pack (if present), and surrounding aquifer.
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Author:
DaveMill (CA)
At 250 feet, it is unlikely that local rainwater is your water source. Believe it or not, the source may be hundreds of miles away, depending on the topology of the aquifer that your well driller happened to hit.
Stop calling plumbers, they make civilization possible by the work they do on the surface, but they may not be experts on wells. Find a well service run by someone with grey hair. We are fortunate here, we have two services run by grey haired guys who inherited their businesses from their fathers. These guys are likely familiar with aquifers and flows in your area. Sometimes they or their fathers drilled your well in the first place.
Good luck!
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Author:
packy (MA)
davemill... great advice.
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Author:
Don411 (IN)
Agreed, the previous owner gave us his list of contacts when we bought the house, including the well and septic guys.
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Author:
JohnK70 (PA)
You do not have a water or pump issue. What's being described is unrelated to the water or integrity of the pump. The key information here is that it happens only in the hot summer months (think temperature). You have a section of black cast iron casing that extends about a foot out of the ground. That metal acts as a black body radiator that can and will reach temperatures exceeding 150 degrees F. Put a black cast iron pan (or any black piece of metal) in the direct sun for an hour and crack an egg on it and you'll see what I mean. The wires coming from the pump are spliced into your underground feed wire from the main electrical panel in the head space of that sun induced oven. Materials expand under heat and contract under a cooled environment. If you have a hydronic heating system in your home, you will hear the sounds of that expansion as the copper pipes heat up from a cold start to a typical upper limit water temperature of 180 degrees F. What you likely have is a poor electrical connection somewhere in the space between ground level to the top cap of your well casing that is exacerbating a poor electrical connection. A poor connection will build up resistance in the wire and generate heat that will make matters worse. Your pump will receive erratic electrical voltage causing it to pulse when the pressure drops in your holding tank in the house and calls for the pump to turn on. Every time your well pump turns on it will twist due to the torque of the motor which is why some pumps have torque arresters installed. If you had a short further down in the well by the pump due to torque twist, then your water delivery symptoms would not be discriminating with respect to temperature. Pull the well cap and look closely at the connections in the wire nuts. You could have corrosion, a bad connection or both. You may want to cut the wires back and strip them to expose clean wires. Give them a good twist and then use wire nuts for #12 wire that come prefilled with conductive silicone which you will find at most home centers. these will protect the connections from moisture and assist in conduction since they are impregnated with cations. (ie: make sure you turn off the beaker for the pump in your main panel first). Next look for signs of a short in your pump wires exposed to the above ground casing temps. You may see brittle or singed wire casing. Sometimes going down the wire and tugging will expose a short because the wire casing will be able to stretch at the compromised point of contact. In any case, you have a heat induced electrical problem that will produce the elusive symptoms you are describing. If you are not comfortable working on electrical, then call an electrician. (FYI - the poor connection may not be so poor in the cooler months when the temperatures drop, and contraction is providing a suitable path for the electricity to flow to the pump. Hope this helps troubleshoot the problem.
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