I have two toilets that I am trying to install floor bolt caps. This should have been an easy 5 minute task but no.

The new caps comes with a plastic washer and a cap that snaps onto the plastic washer. To install it all I need to do is to remove the old nut on the toilet floor bolt, remove old metal washer, plastic washer, put on new plastic washer, new metal washer, new but, tighten nut and snap on new caps.

But I am having trouble removing the old nut.

These two toilets were probably installed by the same plumber once upon a time. He tightened the nut on the floor bolts, and proceeded to saw/grind off the bolt flush with the nut.





So, when I loosen the nut, the nut will turn counterclockwise for about a half turn, after that, turning the nut will also turn the floor bolts so it's just spinning in place. It is pretty obvious when the bolts were cut the threads at the end got messed up so if you can keep the bolt stationary you can usually back the screw out to make clear the threads again, but the way it is now, I can't think of a way to unthread the nut.

Obviously I can take a Dremel and split the nut, but that will also damage the bolt, and once that happens, I will have to pull the toilet which I'd rather not do.

Anyone has any idea how I can remove the nut without damaging the bolt?



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Given the circumstances, it’s best practice to cut the bolts pull the toilet, install new wax ring, and new bolts
I know you already knew that you probably just didn’t wanna hear it
Remember, nothing and plumbing is easy

if you can loosen the nut then it will ultimately come off.
once you get it loose try to wedge something between the washer and the toilet. i use the blade on my jack knife. a little upwards pressure will help the bolt from turning.
once the nut turns a little, tilt the bolt if it is stuborn.
if the new washers turn out to be thicker than the old and you haqve trouble starting the old nut,,, just turn it upsidedown. the tapered end will work just fine

Sum, check out this thread.The bar is very thin and should slide under the nut.
[www.plbg.com]

With a cutoff blade in your Dreimel, cut a slot across the top of the bolt. It won't hurt if the cut extends into the nut a short distance. Then hold the bolt with a narrow screwdriver while you unscrew the nut.

Not trying to be Mr Obvious, but you did try to snap the new caps onto the old plastic retainers?

sharp1 (IL)... i learned something new today

And I have learned more from PlumbingForum.com and contributors like you that have prevented me from making costly mistakes in my repairs and updates for my family.
The majority of office machines I worked on since 1963 used slotted headless screws and a locking nut as adjustments. Special hollow hex sockets with a handle and a thin screwdriver were available to speed the work. The socket enclosed the screwdriver and prevented it from slipping out of the slot as you turned the screw in or out. Most trades have special tools that can apply to other trades I have found. I have a large crowfoot 1/2" drive wrench I made from a steel plate I rescued from a typewriter case when I replaced a deeply recessed shower drain at my son's house I could not reach with other tools. More fun making tools than using them.



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Packy, I tried your suggestion with a putty knife, straight or tilted. No go.

I saw george's post on the jam bar but there is none locally I can find so I am going to make my own by grinding a V notch on a knife to give it more contact area and try again. If not I may have to buy a jam bar online and wait for it to be delivered a few days later.

george I didn't know about this tool. I couldn't find one locally though called a few supply houses they didn't even know what it is LOL.

I will try to make one myself with a dremel and see if it works, and if not I will buy one and wait for the delivery.

For me every time when the end of a bolt is cut, it's a 50/50 chance whether a nut can come off clean or be put back on with the damaged end thread. This is the worst scenerio where you can't even get at the head of the bolt to fix it in place.

steve, yes I tried it the new caps won't fit a bit different in the plastic base.

This is my "toilet installation" box. I keep a wide selection of precut bolts of various lengths. The ends are dressed on a bench grinder so nuts will go on and off easily. While I am spending some time preparing the bolts, I save myself (and other plumbers) future headaches.

The jam bar has sharp teeth which dig into the brass bolt shank and prevent it from turning while the nut is unscrewed. It will be difficult to replicate the teeth on knife stock.

george, you are a true professional. I wish more plumbers are like you that takes pride in their work and think of the person coming after them.

Not finding this jam bar locally and not willing to wait for an online order delivery, I decided to make my own jam bar.

first I took a rusty old putty knife that probably should have been tossed out and I drilled a hole through it the same size as the toilet bolt's shaft.





and a Dremel to cut a notch from the edge of the blade to the drilled hole, creating a V shaped notch. It doesn't have the tiny teeth that the real tool has, but may be that's all it needs in my case.





with pressure on the putty knife's notch jammed onto the bolt I was able to stop the bolt from turning and rotate off the nut.




I repeated this on the other side and that worked too.

Now the harder part is to put on the new shiny brass nuts because of the threads being messed up at the end I struggled a bit but eventually was able to put on new washers new nuts new caps.

That bolt in the last picture looks like it was shortened with a pair of dykes/pliers/side cutters.

definitely shortened that's why the end threads got messed up and the nut wouldn't back out fully.