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Author:
Trevor (NC)
I cannot identify this type of thread. BSPP, NPSM, NPSC?? Something else? I count 2 threads more than NPT, and seemingly shallower valleys.
Diameter is 1-1/4". I need to adapt to either a 1/2" FNPT or a 1/2" sweat.

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Author:
hj (AZ)
It is proprietary to that faucet and manufacturer. You have to get to the spot where THAT piece attaches to something to have a standard thread.
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Author:
Trevor (NC)
Thanks for your response hj. Unfortunately, I cannot find any manufacturers stamp without tearing out some wall to see it, as there is none on any exposed part of the spout diverted or faucet handles. I doubt it's the original shower hardware, but it's still got to be North of 70 to 80 years old. My real question is whether anyone recognizes the type of thread I'm dealing with, in order TO mate a connector to it. So far, 2 online pipe and fittings companies cannot.
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Author:
Trevor (NC)
Thanks for retrieving the pics Steve. I'm going to try posting just one since those were so badly downgraded they just won't enlarge clearly. I'm trying to, give solid visual clues so one may deduce the thread size and type, and in the best case, perhaps a suggestion as to where I might find the correct reducer/coupler.
[photos.app.goo.gl]
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Author:
packy (MA)
those are threads specific to that manufacturer.
this is done so you have to buy only their replacement parts
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Author:
sum (FL)
As others have stated, this is brand specific and difficult to recognize visually.
In addition, the spout may not even correspond to the brand of the tub valve as it is not uncommon for someone to have replaced the spout in the past with another brand.
Do you have a picture of the spout you removed? That will be a better way to try to recognize the brand.
What I would suggest is to shine a flashlight into the wall cavity, and see if you can determine how this piece sticking out of the wall is connected behind the wall. Is it threaded in? If so you can unthread it and start from there, you can connect to a threaded joint behind the wall without tearing up the wall. That way you can buy whatever brand of spout you want.
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Author:
Trevor (NC)
Oh, of course it would be a solder joint ...(The "of course" refers to what we all know - it's NEVER easy). I'm a renovator so that doesn't phase me. I can handle that ... it's just that whoever plumbed it last used a female PVC reducer/coupler. I tried the same thing, but I can't get mine to stop leaking. Not with Teflon tape and not with thread seal. The PVC thread is just too course. So I thought I was being clever, and decided to heat the connector and then thread the PVC on to it cutting new threads with the heat. Unfortunately it only half worked, as the threads are so shallow it was too easy to get slippage, which meant I only got a few clean threads. But I swear the PVC connector the last guy used seemed to have finer threads?? (having no idea how how long ago that connection was made). But it worked and it frustrates me that I can't duplicate that. Well guys thanks for the advice and I get it. You're probably right and there is no real work around.
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Author:
steve (CA)
Is there a showerhead above? Being that the spout connection is inline with the handles, I'm thinking what you are seeing is the valve housing and the small hole in the face is a showerhead feed? Maybe clean the OD really good (possibly grinding/filing down the threads) and soldering a copper coupling or a short stub of copper tubing over the housing and then you could reduce the copper to something for a modern spout.
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Author:
DaveMill (CA)
We live in hard water california, so faucet parts need cleaning/replacement every few years. It is pointless to try to find replacement parts for any except the common brands: Kohler, Moen, Price-Fister, American Standard, a few others. Consider trying to find replacement parts for any new faucet you are considering purchase.
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