I am trying to remove a Delta Michael Graves Collection series 4588 two handle mini widespread lav faucet.

This is the exploded view of the parts diagram.



This is what the faucet looks like when new.



As you can see, there is a body assembly from below that is pushed up, and I think the center spout and the two handles are secured below with three nuts. The two lever handles are secured up top with two snap rings.

So far, I have removed everything above for the two handles - the bonnet nuts, cartridges, snap rings etc...so this is where I am. The levers are free from above.







According to the parts diagram, I think I need to remove the hex nut below the center spout from below, after that may be the spout will be free (or may be not). See the nut I put a red rectangle around below is the nut I think that needs to come off.



Only problem is, the assembly below is preventing me to put any kind of basin wrench or hex wrench or plier near it.

Once the topside valve housing retainer rings/trims are removed, the valve body should just pull down, leaving the spout attached to the countertop. You will have access to the spout nut once the valve body is removed. The valve body has a riser tube with an o-ring that pushes up inside the spout.



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steve,

Are you saying the middle stem from below (the skinny shaft that has an o-ring at the top) should just pull loose from below? I have already removed everything on the two handles top side.

I tried to pull it but it didn't move. I found an identical faucet on ebay, not to buy, but it has a picture of the faucet before assembly and it looks like there is some sort of a "sharkbite" teeth set up at the top of that stem.

From what you are saying, I should just pull on that bottom assembly real hard and see if it separates? The part I put a red boundary around should pull loose?

Correct. That lower section should just pull out from the spout.

steve, thank you, you are absolutely right! I tucked on the body from below and it wouldn't pull free, and tried it a few more times and no luck, finally I decided to try to wiggle and rock the body a little at a time and eventually it came free!

Now I have the whole thing taken apart and ready to assemble the new Delta faucet.







I also had some trouble taking apart the pop up drain. I must say I am not a fan of Delta's popup drain design, the top flange and the bottom shaft meet somewhere inside the sink's drain hole. In the past every drain I have taken apart of installed the entire drain flange extends from the sink all the way through, and the nut is secured before you connect the next piece that has the branch for the popup rod. Delta's design requires a threaded connection that one cannot visualize or check.

The new Delta faucet I bought has a brass body but the pop up drain is all plastic. I am debating if I should put back the old metal drain. A bit disappointing for a $165 faucet to get an all plastic drain.

Plastic drains don't ever corrode and can always be taken apart. I don't mind plastic drains as long as they are strong enough for the job.

F those faucets I arrived at a job and saw that pos, very busy busy day and didn’t have tim to mess around
I cut the entire faucet out using an oscillating tool and installed the ever so plumber friendly moen faucet

I agree with both George & Bsipps.

I never recommend Delta faucets.....

george I guess it's not so much it's plastic, but I more of the design because I have seen this in metal as well.

so this is what the Delta Larkin lav faucet model 15890LF's pop up drain. The faucet body itself is all metal but the popup drain is all plastic.



The issues I have with such a drain assembly are:

(A) the top flange and the bottom assembly are to be connected with a screw connection just below the flange at position "A", where you kind of have to tighten at the same time you do the sealing of the flange to the basin (with putty or silicone). There is no way to verify that the connection is tight enough.



( With a plastic assembly like this, often times the entire assembly is one piece, with no provisions to disconnect at position "B" or "C". In a metal piece most of the time the connection at A is not necessary all you have is one piece. You do the flange sealing and thread up the big nut first, and only after that's done you thread in the branch below for the drain rod and orient the branch towards the wall. With a single piece plastic, if you realize later on the orientation of this branch is off a bit, and you need to adjust it, that adjustment will most likely break the seal between the flange and the basin, or loosen the connection at "A".

(C) Without a connection at "C", I cannot undo the tail piece extension below the branch and replace it with a longer piece, which means if the assembly is too short, I will have to settle by inserting an otherwise not necessary extension like this. If that last piece can be removed and replaced, I don't have to do something like this. Not the end of the world, but I try to avoid too many joints.



I am installing 3 of these faucets so I am thinking of throwing away the popup drains and just get a metal one instead.



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I have installed many such drains.

I have never had any difficulty with installing the screwed on flange flange. It does not matter if it is a turn short of bottoming out since a water-tight seal is not needed. What I do not like about screwed on flanges is removing them years after installation. I frequently have to cut them out because the threads tend to seize.

Freshly applied silicone gives you at least fifteen minutes working time, which is adequate in case turning of the entire assembly is needed for orientation.

With point C, yes, aesthetically, not having an extra joint is neater.

george good point about not having to seal the threaded joint below the flange, if it leaks it just runs down and get back inside through the overflow holes. I wonder how tight it needs to be, I was going to use some pipe dope to help thread it tighter but now I am wondering if it's even needed.