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 Another rough in problem
Author: sum (FL)

I posted about this in one of the bathroom sink cabinet where the supply line was right at the edge of the cabinet side wall.



Now I am replacing the kitchen countertop so I need to remove all the plumbing connections below and prepare for a new sink.



After removing the disposer I got a closer look at it's drain. Also right at the edge of the sink cabinet, actually so close that the nut for the trap adapter had to be broken off in order for it to tighten or loosen.





You might be thinking this must have been some renovation that went sideways but no, this is original construction from 2007, high rise condo so all professional work done by someone with insurance and permitting yet this is just frustrating to see.

I am thinking when I reconfigure the new double sink, I will just abandon this drain, just cement a 45 elbow to it and a cleanout? Use the center drain for both sink bowls so I don't have to deal with this right side drain at all?

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 Re: Another rough in problem
Author: Don411 (IN)

That's crazy! I wonder what the reason for the 2nd drain is? Also, I see a water line connection for a dishwasher but no drain, is it behind the disposal in this pic?

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 Re: Another rough in problem
Author: sum (FL)

The dishwasher drains into the disposer which goes into this edge of wall drain connection. The left sink bowl drains into the center drain.

I think somewhere they must have had a design change and got messed up. I would love to see what other units at the same position as mine but on different floors if they have the same issue or not. If one comes on the market for sale I will go in to take a look not to buy but to check if they have the same supply and drain connections right at the edge of the cabinets.

Also the electrical rough in is too close to the supply lines.

Think with everything disconnected I am going to cut a new piece of 1/4" plywood to fit over the back side and drill new holes for all the penetrations.

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 Re: Another rough in problem
Author: sum (FL)

I removed all the drain connections in preparation of the new countertop installation.

The supply piping is CPVC, I was REALLY nervous in removing the faucet connections to the angle valves. As I tried to loosen the 3/8" faucet nut, which I think may not have been exercised since 2007, I had to crank real hard, and I worried that I may break the CPVC if I turn it too hard. It's kind of awkward to try and steady the valve just to tighten/loosen the valve outlet. Sure enough it leaks even when shut so I had to cap off with a 3/8" compression nut.



Question, the angle valve is a 1/2 connection valve with a 3/8" outlet. To cap the outlet, if I get a 3/8" cap, it does not fit, I have to get a 3/8" COMPRESSION cap, it fits. Why the difference? Besides, the 3/8" compression cap does not seal by compression I don't think, there is no gasket on the inside, and I had to add some pipe dope to close it off entirely.

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 Re: Another rough in problem
Author: Don411 (IN)

Maybe one of the pros knows why so many thread types.....compression fittings, flare fittings, iron pipe, garden hose, all different threads.

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 Re: Another rough in problem
Author: george 7941 (Canada)

The angle valve has a 3/8 compression outlet (9/16-24 thread) whereas 3/8 pipe thread is 11/16(avg)-18. Only a compression cap will fit

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 Re: Another rough in problem
Author: steve (CA)

Sum, you can use an 00 flat seat washer as a gasket in a 3/8 compression nut.

Post Reply

 Re: Another rough in problem
Author: packy (MA)

you can also use a few inches of teflon tape smushed up into a small flying saucer shape.

Post Reply

 Re: Another rough in problem
Author: sum (FL)

Got it! I could not believe I have been doing DIY plumbing for a while and just now realized 3/8" regular pipe threads and 3/8" compression threads are two different animals. I'm am amazed how I got away with not knowing this.

Post Reply

 Re: Another rough in problem
Author: sum (FL)

Ok 00 flat seat washer noted.

Post Reply

 Re: Another rough in problem
Author: george 7941 (Canada)

The compression caps are designed to use the compression ferrule. If you have a spare ferrule on hand,insert it into the cap and then screw the cap on and it will seal just fine.

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 Re: Another rough in problem
Author: sum (FL)

Thank you george. Just a ferrule will work? I might have to try it just to see if that does the trick or not because in my mind, the height of the ferrule may prevent the cap from catching too many threads?

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 Re: Another rough in problem
Author: sum (FL)

Now I am trying to prepare the drains. This is my starting point. The idea is I will be abandoning the right side drain and convert it to a cleanout opening. Both sink bowls will drain to the middle drain instead.



But when I look at the right side drain, I am not sure how to go about it. Normally I will just cut (with an oscillating tool since it's tight quarter or even a cable saw) behind the first fitting, than cement on a street 45 elbow turning to the left, onto the street end a cleanout adapter, with a cleanout plug, done. BUT a closer look I see an issue.



See how the pipe is coming in crooked? I don't know if the pipe is coming in crooked, or it was actually straight but the fitting nudged it to one side. If I were to cut it as indicated by the red arrow, I am not even sure I have room to put on a fitting. A 1-1/2" fitting has a larger OD then that of the 1-1/2" pipe, and a primer/cement applicator can't wipe around that either.

Any pro tricks?

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 Re: Another rough in problem
Author: packy (MA)

sum, take that slip nut off.
make a string of teflon tape by twisting it and wrap than around the male threads. then put a couple of wraps of teflon tape. then put some pipe dope and screw on a female adapter.

Post Reply

 Re: Another rough in problem
Author: george 7941 (Canada)

The compression cap has the same height and as many threads as a compression nut, so it will engage just as many threads with the ferrule in place.

Post Reply

 Re: Another rough in problem
Author: Curly (CA)

You can do Packys way or remove slip joint nut and put a 1-1/2" Jim Cap over the threads and tighten the hose clamp.

Post Reply





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