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Author:
sum (FL)
I have a washing machine valve box with two shutoffs and a drain.
I noticed that the one on the right is leaking, very slowly, about 1 drip every 5 seconds. Good news is the drain is just next to it so it just go down the drain (if no moisture seeps to the wall).
This is a compression connection with hammer arrestors. I believe it came with the box. I find these valves where the handles are, with the supply hoses and washer discharge hose connected, very difficult to get in between to turn.
Hence the question, how useful are these hammer arrestors? I heard that they get filled up after a few months and are not very effective. Would it be better to get valves that have handles up top that is easier to operate?
The piping is CPVC, compression connection. I hope the piping is strapped in so when I disconnect and remove the valve, the piping will not dip two inches lower under the holes to make it necessary to open the wall.
If I replace the dripping one, I think I should just replace the hot side too right?
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Author:
george 7941 (Canada)
Don't replace the valves if you can live with the stiff handles. You can get thread on caps to stop the drip when the machine hoses are not connected.
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Author:
sum (FL)
george, can you clarify why to not replace the dripping valves?
I know while the hoses are connected the valves are always open and the machine opens and closes their own connections in the back and yes I can use a hose cap to work around it, but now I have the machine removed and have access to replace it do you envision some complications in replacement? It should be straight forward jus compression values right? I may not even need to remove the nut and ferrule?
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Author:
george 7941 (Canada)
My only concern was about the pipes dropping when disconnected but if there is enough of the box to prevent the compression nuts from sliding down the two holes, then you should be ok replacing the valves.
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Author:
sum (FL)
OK so I think I will attempt to replace it. I am hoping it will not slide down...it should be strapped to the framing right I hope LOL?
If not, may be the nut and ferrule will help it stay put.
I think I have a real thin bicycle wrench may be I will try to tighten it under the nut to see if I can raise the pipe, if it moves than more than likely it is not strapped and secured and may slide down if the valve is free.
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Author:
Sauktim (WI)
A few very random thoughts. That's probably a trim ring on the box. It might pop off and give you a peek under the box to see how the pipes look or let you grab them.
The valves are arthritic( like the rest of us). If you hook the hose back up and aim the other end down the drain, then open and close multiple times, it might exercise them enough to clean up the seats of the valve. Lastly, worse case scenario, leave all in place and thread new arrestors on inlet threads on machine and hook her back up.
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Author:
sum (FL)
I didn't think of removing the trim. I just did and thought for sure there will be some space between the box's edge and the drywall cut out.
Strangely enough, this box cut out is very tight with no gap!
I guess if the piping does pop off and sink below I can open the cut out bottom edge a little and try and get to it.
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