

Over 700,000 strictly plumbing related posts
Welcome to Plbg.com (also known as PlumbingForum.com) where plumbing advice, education, information, help and suggestions are provided by some of the most experienced plumbers and plumbing contractors anywhere who all wish to "give back" to society. Since 1996 we have been free without popup or other invasive ads and known to be the best online STRICTLY PLUMBING advice site. If you have questions about plumbing, toilets, sinks, faucets, drains, sewers, water filters, venting, water heating, showers, pumps, and other strictly PLUMBING related issues then you've come to the right place. Please refrain from asking or discussing legal questions, or pricing, or where to find and/or purchase products, or any business issues, or for contractor referrals, or any other questions or issues not specifically related to plumbing. Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. Our site is completely free, without ads or pop-ups and we don't track you. We absolutely do not sell your personal information. We are made possible by:
Author:
ihatedrips (CA)
I am planning to install two new connectors on the exterior side of my house. One is a 1/2" quick disconnect natural gas hookup for grills/heaters/generators. The other is a compressed air outlet piped to a compressor in the garage.
I see that there are fancy stainless steel gas hookup boxes available online for $100+, like [www.amazon.com]
I would consider spending the money on this if it is the best choice. But I was also thinking that I could stuff both the gas + air hookups into a 2-3 gang weatherproof in-use electrical enclosure. These are watertight and readily available. I don't know of a reason why they *can't* be used for things other than electrical (but that's why I'm asking).
Inside the wall, I would use 1/2" galvanized for the gas and brass nipples/fittings for the air. Exercising care not to scratch the galvanized finish pushing it through the stucco.
Any thoughts on these choices, or what a typical professional installation might look like?
FWIW I do have some previous experience running/threading black iron gas lines indoors so not a complete novice.
This is in a place with a moderate climate.
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
bernabeu (SC)
building permit
or record the work at the register of deeds office
AND
notify your insurer
? still want to DIY on gas ?
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
bernabeu (SC)
how to be a butcher 101 :
WHERE IS THE VALVE, quick connects are prone to leakage ??!!??!!
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
packy (MA)
check your local codes. i believe the barbeque has to be 6 ft from the house and chained to the ground/deck.
that's a nice looking box. i would use it for the gas.
also remember any exposed gas piping must be painted to stop rust.
lastly, my code says the gas pipe must be sleeved where it comes thru any wall or floor of the house. although it doesn't specify what the sleeve must be.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
ihatedrips (CA)
The outdoor gas appliances wouldn't be permanently connected. I would include a valve (as the Amazon box does).
Probably, I'd start by converting my LP patio heater to gas, since it's 48,000 BTU/hr and goes through propane tanks really fast on High.
I can add the sleeve. I don't think any piping will be considered "exposed" since it will just go through the stucco into the box?
Not sure what to do with the air compressor line though? I did just see one today where it sticks out of the house and it's fully exposed to the elements. But I would prefer to enclose both of these in watertight boxes for longevity. Just don't know what kinds of boxes people normally use.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
bernabeu (SC)
The gas line MUST, repeat MUST, be sleeved.
If it terminates outdoors whether 'protected' or not it is EXPOSED by definition.
IMO (tough love):
You are playing with fire. (pun intended) Your questions show a lack of knowledge dealing with gas.
STOP - get a permit and you will see what is MINIMALLY required.
the key being MINIMALLY not necessarily best or even good practice
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
packy (MA)
even if it is not permanently connected it must be chained down.
you will need to get a gas LP to NATURAL conversion kit. (look it up)
most come with a regulator, some king of quick disconnect, orfices and a couple other things.
so you'll have to see what your particular job looks like and decide what to use and what to put where.
the electrical box you asked about might be appropriate?
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
ihatedrips (CA)
The heater doesn't work at all right now. Super low flow to the burner (on LP) while holding in the knob on MAX. Haven't taken it apart yet to find the issue (but any pointers would be helpful).
So I'll either fix it and install the proper conversion kit, or buy a "native" natgas heater to replace it.
As for the rest of the job... I *am* posting here to gather feedback so that it all gets done correctly the first time. I keep a list of outstanding items and make sure I completely understand each point before proceeding with the installation.
On that note, what other things should I be watching out for? What are the most common gotchas that can cause leaks or hazards (particularly months/years later) in this type of installation?
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
bernabeu (SC)
The 'quick connect' is generally for LP which is at a much higher pressure than nat gas.
Sooooo, if you are trying a nat gas appliance using an LP quick connect on a nat gas line you are NFG.
There ARE nat gas quick connects BUT they are LARGE and EXPENSIVE.

|
Post Reply
|
Author:
ihatedrips (CA)
That quick connect looks similar to the one I linked in the OP ( [www.amazon.com] )
I would be using it with a hose similar to [www.amazon.com] which says "1/2 PSI" on the side. Haven't done the sizing/length calculations yet.
I'm more worried about doing the "house" side correctly, especially the part in the wall void. There won't be any outdoor appliances permanently attached, so that side is less of a hazard.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
bernabeu (SC)
Quick connects for gas service are hazardous in and of themselves.
They MUST be 'backed up' by ACCESSABLE hi quality gas rated valves which will need FREQUENT operation.
You should NOT, repeat NOT, rely on the quick connect fitting for shutdown.
what you want is a wall flange:
pic for illustration of flange only (flange is NPT on both sides like a coupling)
use a street ell looking down before the valve and quick connector
or a box:
[www.amazon.com]
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
packy (MA)
the fact is that there are numerous opinions here about what you should do and not do.
personally i would run CSST gas pipe to a wall termination like bern shows, then a gas shutoff like bern shows and from there use a kit like this...[www.amazon.com]
the new grill you buy will come with a regulator.
BTW...CSST is available in 25 foot lengths. it is sold at big box stores along with all the necessary fittings
[www.homedepot.com]
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
ihatedrips (CA)
I've shied away from using CSST in the past because I wasn't confident that I could do the grounding correctly. Do you happen to have any tips?
As for the QC... we will use the valve to shut off gas flow when the appliance isn't in use. I don't trust anything that's baking in the sun outside, to stay water/gas tight while pressurized and unattended. Every garden hose I've ever owned has turned brittle and crumbled after 5-10 years.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
packy (MA)
just use a ground clamp on the csst and a ground clamp on a metal pipe. run a # 12 wire between them.
if it is easy to run the wire from the csst back to a screw on the electric panel, that will work too.
use lots of tube talon hangers to secure the csst and use the special tape to cover any exposed stainless tubing.
ALSO... under no circumstance use a bubble solution with chlorine in it to test.
kids blowing bubble solution is fine for checking for leaks.
after testing wash the solution off with warm water.
|
Post Reply
|
Please note:
- Inappropriate messages or blatant advertising will be deleted. We cannot be held responsible for bad or inadequate advice.
- Plbg.com has no control over external content that may be linked to from messages posted here. Please follow external links with caution.
- Plbg.com is strictly for the exchange of plumbing related advice and NOT to ask about pricing/costs, nor where to find a product (try Google), nor how to operate or promote a business, nor for ethics (law) and the like questions.
- Plbg.com is also not a place to ask radiant heating (try HeatingHelp.com), electrical or even general construction type questions. We are exclusively for plumbing questions.
Search for plumbing parts on our sponsor's site:
Special thanks to our sponsor:

|