Can anyone help me identify this PRV? Whoever installed it did not want anyone to know anything about it, so they tore the tag off. It is about 20 years old.

[i.postimg.cc]

Thank You!

I think it is a Cash Acme.....

[www.cashacme.com]

Thank you for the help.



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are you going to replace it or rebuild it?
if replacing then there are lots of PRV's that are threaded on one end and union on the other.
i think my friend from CA made a slight mistake.. do not under any circumstances use an iron body valve.

ditto Packy

Quote

..... Because of the iron body, this valve is not recommended for use in potable water applications. .....

{as per [www.cashacme.com]}

>Quote: Author: packy (MA)
>are you going to replace it or rebuild it?

I was hoping to rebuild it. Unfortunately, since I don't know the model number, I suppose it will be impossible to find the proper kit. After looking more carefully, I found there was enough of the tag left (under the locking nut) to identify it as a Watts -- but no more information than that. Looks like whoever ripped the tag off grabbed it with a pair of pliers, and twisted it off. Why anyone would do that is beyond me...having a bad day, I suppose. The only marking on the body is a single "T"...



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>Quote:
>Author: packy (MA)
>if replacing then there are lots of PRV's that are threaded on one end and union on the other.

Is the length between the threaded end and the union end standardized?

no, the length is not standard.
you can always e-mail the picture to watts. they can tell you which rebuild kit you need.

while you have the valve apart, make sure to flush it for debris.

Quote: Author: packy (MA)
no, the length is not standard.

Thank you. Can you tell me what the pipe size of this valve is?

[i.postimg.cc]

I appreciate it.

outside diameter of 3/4 copper tubing is .875

nominal 3/4" copper

(it would be 7/8" refrigeration copper tube, same thing except for the nitrogen fill and soft temper of the tube)




the OD of the union threads would NOT be a standard but proprietary to the mfgr.

send the pic AS POSTED to Watts for ID



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That was just a test to see if you guys still had game ! Happy to report you passed with flying colors !

OP - sorry about bad info..will do a better read of details next time.

If you do replace it I would suggest installing a double union model for easier servicing down the road.

Quote:
Author: bernabeu (SC)
"the OD of the union threads would NOT be a standard but proprietary to the mfgr."


From what I have been able to gather, the union threads will not match unless the manufacturer is the same. In other words, a Watts must be replaced by a Watts if you want the threads to match?

If this is the case, would the twenty-year-old threads on the old union still match to a modern unit?

Thank you again.



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'probably' if the same brand, but not guaranteed



ask Watts

not only the threads have to match but the taper on the two mating union pieces has to match.
in other words, a baseball will sit nicely in the pocket of a catchers mitt but a football will not.

I appreciate the help with this. After I suspected a problem, I got a gauge and monitored the pressure for a couple of days. I was shocked when the pressure went as high as 130#! There is a fire hydrant right in front of my house; I read somewhere that they manipulate the pressure around fire hydrants to be high. I don't know whether this is true or not, but the plumber was surprised at the pressure.

I got the valve replaced; now the pressure is 55#.

I had them replace it with a double-union (the old one had a union on one side, and pipe threads on the other). I asked them to give me the old parts.

I ended up with one larger O-ring and two smaller O-rings. I can see how the large O-ring made the union work, but I can't understand the purpose of the two smaller O-rings. Maybe they were included with the new valve -- and were not used.

At any rate, can someone explain how the two smaller O-rings are used?

Here's a pic of what I have: [postimg.cc]

Thank you again.



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