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Author:
sum (FL)
This fitting I believe dates back to 1941 when the house was built.
Since then they have repiped to PVC but left this CI alone. The 4" PVC passing under it have a 4" sanitary tee with the branch sticking up, guess they didn't have enough clearance between the bottom of this CI fitting and the hole through which the pipe must exit through the foundation wall.
I am going to rework this and replace the sanitary tee with a combo fitting. Then this CI fitting will be replaced from here all the way up the roof.
What is this fitting called?
The 2" shower and the 4" toilet both drain to it. The lav sink trap arm connects to it higher up. The strange thing is this fitting the branches look like it's for a vent, I do not see a curve at it's bottom like a sanitary tee. I need to find a version of this in PVC with two connections one 2" one 4" but I also need a street end to connect to the combo below as low as possible.
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Author:
packy (MA)
its called a 4 x 4 x 4 sanitary tee with a 2 inch side inlet.
i've never seen one that is street on the bottom.
take note... the plumbing code says that the tub/shower entering the side does not have to be separately vented if it enters the stack HIGHER than the toilet. look carefully.. the side inlet is slightly higher than the branch.
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Author:
sum (FL)
Packy I can see the 2" side inlet is even with the top of the 4" branch, so the centerline of the 2" is higher than the 4" so they care comparing the centerlines?
I will need to replace with all PVC. I hope such a fitting exist in PVC with street bottom.
How can this be sanitary tee branches I felt around the bottom of the branches they are like sharp 90 angle not curved on the underside like a sanitary tee I expect.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
That fitting had many names, depending on where you were located--Wisconsin tee, cottage tee, side inlet tee. The center line of the branch was sometimes even with the closet bend inlet and never had a "sweep", but they were all allowed.
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Author:
sum (FL)
I found one in PVC but I cannot find one with a street connection at the bottom.
The reason I need a street bottom one is because whoever redid the main line re-pipe to PVC used a 4" sanitary tee on it's back to connect to this CI fitting. When I redo this I want to change the sanitary tee to a COMBO which will raise the connection even higher, and if I then connect to it this fitting in PVC with a hub at the bottom the branches will be higher than the bottom of the floor joists and that means notching framing.
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Author:
sum (FL)
This is the way it is right now TOP VIEW.
This is a simplified ISO. The magenta fitting is the san-tee on it's back, above that this CI fitting.
What if I just use a regular PVC sanitary tee (with a street end) instead of this CI fitting, and run the toilet to it as shown below, then connect the shower to the toilet line but roll the 4X4X2 wye up a little to go to the shower would this be an acceptable wet vent?
![](https://i.postimg.cc/SKYdyH8p/drainPR.jpg)
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Author:
hj (AZ)
The shower does not have a vent and rolling it up just creates a partial "S" trap.
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Author:
sum (FL)
hj you are right, the toilet flushing past will siphon the shower trap. I don't see a way to wet vent this one since the lav drops right down to the main drain.
I guess I will need to use this fitting with the slightly higher 2" side inlet. I found one in PVC.
The search for one with a street connection at the bottom continues.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
you can cheat and cut off 1/2 (no more) of the bottom hub
make SURE, absolutely sure, the inserted 'nipple' is COMPLETELY inserted and does not 'push out' at all when you solvent weld it in place
the taper of the hub makes a welded joint but only at the bottom !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
voila, an 'almost' street end
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Author:
steve (CA)
Sum, how about running a wet vented branch above the existing drain?
![](https://i.postimg.cc/jq448c67/sum-drain.jpg)
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Author:
sum (FL)
steve, the problem is once the main drain picks up the stack, it goes deeper and steeper to go through the foundation stem wall so if I do a tie in further downstream, it's a lot of extra excavation, inside a crawlspace with a 16" max head room. It's kind of hard to dig when all you can use is a hand shovel and you have to either lay on your back or your belly.
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Author:
Curly (CA)
How about using a cast iron 4 x 4 x 2" san tee with left side inlet ? Basically what is existing with no-hub connections.
Would have to use no hub coulings to connect to PVC.
[24hr.supply]
Could trim some of the spigot off the bottom of cast iron fitting to allow room for combo on its back.
I know this is reach....but just an option that may work.
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Author:
sum (FL)
Curly I was thinking along the same line except...if I use a 4X4X2 no hub sanitary tee with side inlet on top of the combo, that will require the combo to have a spigot end on the branch to connect with it. As far as I know they do not make a PVC combo with the branch being a spigot/street connection. So then I will have to change the combo also to a no hub CI combo. So the only thing I don't like is I mam changing from PVC to CI to PVC on the main drain. As far as no hub couplings I have to use that anyway probably a Fernco 4" strong back RC series since I will need to cut out that sanitary tee on it's back and there is no way to get any flex to solvent weld the connections on the main.
I just went through Charlotte's DWV plastic fitting catalog and I was hoping to find a wye or a combo with a street connection off the branch, because if they have that then I can use the regular 4X4X2 sanitary tee with side inlet with a hub at the bottom to connect. No such luck. Nor do they make a PVC DWV 1/8 bend with spigot on both ends if they make that I can make it work.
Finally another option I have is instead of going up 4" I just reduce to 3". On the main I use a 4X4X3 combo. Then on top of that a 3X3X2 sanitary tee with side inlet. The toilet line will reduce to 3", and the stack will reduce to 3" all the way to the roof.
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Author:
Curly (CA)
They make a donut that will go in the 4" pvc hub that the cast iron spigot can go into.
Our sponsor sells it - [www.plumbingsupply.com]
If you change out the entire toilet and vent line to 3" you might then have a enough room to make things work with all pvc.
Good idea on cast iron combo. If you install a cast iron combo on its back you can trim off some of the branch run to give you more room.
The selection of spigot fittings is not great....
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