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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
try unwinding COUNTERclockwise
{unless you miswrote}
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Why would you work on the tub spout, when the problem is obviously in the diverter. I don't remember any Delta diverters that pulled to operate. Most push in to divert the water. Replace the diverter.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
the diverter IS on the spout
not all 'deltas' had diverters built in
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Author:
sum (FL)
It's a tub spout with the diverter knob at the tip of the spout.
I am trying to remove it to replace it but having trouble removing it. This is crazy because I have changed out the tub spout before a few times and I even went back to old photos of the stub out to convince myself it was a threaded connection.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
there 'may' be a female NPT 'adapter' inside the spout which ITSELF is 'spinning' inside the spout but NOT turning on the male NPT 'nipple'
you could try to 'crush' the spout with LARGE channel locks where you think the threads are
you will be changing the spout regardless
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Author:
george 7941 (Canada)
You can cut off the spout with an angle grinder, being careful not to damage the lookout.
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Author:
sum (FL)
Bern, you nailed it. Yes I figured I had to destroy the spout. In the past all I had to do was unscrew these tub spouts and the only trick is to figure out the distance from the wall to the female connection recessed into the spout body sometimes too deep sometimes not deep enough, but I never had to destroy the spout to remove it.
George I was thinking about using an angle grinder but was concerned about having to grind too close to the tiled wall. I end up using a Dremel to make the cut it has more control but slower.
First I turned the spout to face up and I made two cut from the base to the spout, exposing the copper piping.
Then I made a 360 cut to remove the tip of the spout.
By then I can see how the spout body turns, the plastic collar turns, but the metal female connection does NOT. This is such a bad design I wonder what MOEN was thinking.
Once I had that plastic collar cut away, I can undo the female connection part of the spout. Back to the original 1/2" male connection end. I put a threaded cap over it and turned the valve on and off a few times, no noise, so it's definitely the diverter.
I bought an all metal spout, but it is deeper than what I had by about 1/2", so I end up having to extend what I had with a 1/2" MIP X 1/2" FIP fitting.
Took me only 5 minutes to install the tub spout, but much longer to remove the old one. Really makes me think twice about buying more MOEN products in the future.
Edited 2 times.
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Author:
george 7941 (Canada)
stubout = lookout
TUB AND SHOWER VALVES
Measurements
These are shown in the drawings. The depth measurement is critical. Use
the front face of the plaster ground as a reference point for the finished
wall position, including tile (2-1/16" [52mm]). The center line of the supply
and discharge piping should be a maximum of 2-3/16" (56mm) and a minimum
of 1-7/16" (37mm) behind the finished wall surface.
Available with three or four port castings, with and without stops.
Connections are either 1/2 inch I.P.S. pipe or 1/2 inch copper sweat connections.
If the Moen Slip Fit spout is used, a 1/2 inch copper drop and LOOKOUT may be used
[assets.moen.com]
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Author:
george 7941 (Canada)
I use the adjustable Moen 1460BL diverter spout a lot when replacing existing diverter spouts. It is of decent quality and its adjustability saves having to modify the stubout length if it is not what is required.
It is not adjustable when used as a nose threaded spout, which is your what you have.
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Author:
sum (FL)
george, the adjustable ones is a push fit with a gasket connection and locked in from below with a set screw right?
I might switch to such a connection one day, right now all my rental tub spouts are female connections, and most of them are Pfister spouts (metal), and Pfister has been good with sending me free replacement should the diverter fails. Strangely, they all fail in about 3-5 years and is always the diverter gate becoming loose. If a tenant reports a problem, I verify the issue and Pfister sends me a replacement and it takes two weeks. Now if the issue is severe, like the diverter pulls up and immediately drops back down without switching to the overhead shower, I just remove the tub spout all together and install a temporary 1/2" FIP quarter turn angle valve and that works until the replacement arrives.
I just could not believe how this plastic collar does not unscrew it seems to have broken free from the metal female adapter inside of it. I have to think they were connected together at one time because I once screwed this spout on clockwise, and may be the screwing it on tight broke that connection, or may be they designed it once that spout was threaded on, a certain torque will break the plastic from the metal and once that happens you have to destroy the spout to remove it.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
george,
? is it tomato or tomatoe up north ?
i stand corrected re: regional 'nomenclature'
![grinning smiley grinning smiley](https://www.plbg.com/forum/mods/smileys/images/smilie5.gif)
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Author:
george 7941 (Canada)
The adjustability comes from two matimg threaded parts inside the spout. The length varies on how much they are screwed in to one another and the sealing of this movement is accomplished by an o-ring. There is no gasket. There is a setscrew to lock the spout in place when slid over 1/2 in copper. Setscrew is not used when the 1460 is used as a nose threaded or heel threaded spout.
[assets.moen.com]
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Author:
sum (FL)
Thanks george, I will check it out. Looks interesting, it is similar to a "slip fix" coupling I use occasionally to fix sprinkler lines.
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Author:
george 7941 (Canada)
The 1460 is also useful when encountering stubouts that are not anchored and flexes in and out of the wall. The 1460 can be rotated after mounting to pull the stubout out a bit to stabilise it. The spout can then be caulked to prevent further rotation. Of course the stubout can only be pulled out a lttle lest too much stress is placed on the drop from the shower valve.
This way you end up with a reasonably rigid spout even with an unclamped elbow at the stubout inside the wall.
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