I replaced a 2" PVC p trap and used a 2" PVC coupling and a stub piece on the inlet of the p trap .I dry fitted it and marked it. I used primer and heavy cement and one side of the trap has a 1/16"gap on the coupling on the outside of one side. Would a crooked riser cause this?

different manufactures between pipe and fittings can give you a too tight or too loose fit.

I wonder if it could also be manufacturing tolerance and QA issues.

I recently was modifying the plumbing on the pump side of my fish pond and needed to connect a 3/4" to the branch of a 1-1/2X3/4 tee. I was using all Charlotte fittings, and was at the big box store holding a 1-1/2X3/4 tee, I grabbed a 3/4 street 90 and it fits really loosely into the tee, normally you cannot bottom a spigot end into a socket but it bottomed loosely. I grabbed another street 90, another, another, same problem. I then took a street 90 and grabbed several tees to see if some may fit snugly, none did. I concluded the street 90 is the problem and went with all socket 90s instead.



For me personally I am seeing this more and more often that I test the fit at the store before purchasing. I think the loose ones will still work for drains and non-pressure applications and you just end up with a cemented joint and not true solvent welded joint and many will not even know the difference.

Quote

I think the loose ones will still work for drains and non-pressure applications and you just end up with a cemented joint and not true solvent welded joint and many will not even know the difference.

DITTO

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Heavy PVC cement works great for loose PVC fittings. I made a PVC funnel to test a condensate pump using a 3"x 1 1/2 coupling, A 1 1/2" x 1"bushing,Scrap pieces of PVC pipe and couplings. I used heavy PVC Cement and cemented a 3/4" PVC coupling in to the 1" bushing and it was a little loose but it worked great.

.... but only for NON PRESSURIZED drainage where it acts like a filler glue


the compression of a proper tapered fitted joint actually welds the two plastic pieces together albeit said weld is slightly longer than the 'length' of the wall thickness (the pressure weld forms at the bottom 'area' of the taper where there is pressure)


a primary (pun intended) purpose of the primer is to 'pre soften' the pipe for said SOLVENT welding action



if all is proper the joint is as strong as the piping itself

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.