UPC 312.9 'Steel Nail Plates' reads, 'Plastic and copper or copper alloy piping penetrating framing members to within 1 inch (25.4 mm) of the exposed framing shall be protected by steel nail plates not less than No. 18 gauge (0.0478 inches) (1.2 mm) in thickness. The steel nail plate shall extend along the framing member not less than 1½ inches (38 mm) beyond the outside diameter of the pipe or tubing.'

I didn't know about these until I read the code. There aren't any on my home. I've never seen them used elsewhere. They seem like a good idea. I'm installing them where I'm replacing stuff; I'm not opening up walls just to add them. I noticed that BigHomeStore has 'nail stoppers' in the plumbing section, 'nail stops' in the lumber section. Nail stops are cheaper and thicker (gauge 16).

They are to prevent nails from damaging piping. IF you walls are already enclosed then there is no need to "open the walls to install" then.

nail plates over existing walls .

years ago i was installing an additional zone of finned baseboard heat in a finished room.
i took off the wood baseboard and nailed the units onto the wall.
i piped the units down thru holes into the basement.
when in the tall basement i stood with one foot on a ladder and one foot in an old cast iron slop sink.
when i grabbed the new copper tubing i had put in, i got a "tingle".
yeah one of the nails i has used knicked a wire.
i had to pull the nails one by on until the tingling stopped.
funny thing was no tinglingl until i grounded myself.
i open the wall and called an electrician

I add stuff to my walls: shelves, cabinets, bolts to hold stuff... I always attach to studs (hate drywall anchors). My point is that the people who built my home didn't use them, nor have I found any on any other building I've looked into, so know about them only from reading the code.

Electricity only flows through a complete circuit. Unless you ground yourself it doesn't matter what voltage you're attached to. Keith Relf, the singer of the Yardbirds, died because his guitar amp wasn't grounded, had faulty wiring, and his floor was wet. Curiously the British TV show 'Strange Report' had an episode about a rock guitarist dying from just that - before Relf's death.

Not QUITE true.

True for 120VAC - ONE 'hot leg'.

MISLEADING for 240VAC - two hot legs.

IF, repeat IF, you contact BOTH legs you WILL be electrocuted WITHOUT the necessity of a ground.

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

The code calls for nail plates if pipe is less than 1.5" from framing, so I assume they expect 2" or less screws or nails or 2.5" or less baseboard nails. Electric code is 1-1/4" from framing to edge of bored holes so assuming at least 1/2" drywall no need for nail plates if you run supply lines or wiring down the middle of the studs and use 1-3/4" or less nails/screws. Of course it's best to have it in case someone drives a 3" lag bolt into the wall or ceiling for a heavy load.



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The code calls for nail plates if pipe is less than 1.5" from framing, and Electric code is 1-1/4" from framing to edge of bored holes

I have seen many holes bored 1" from the edge of the stud/joist that have passed inspection. I used to use 2" nails in my gun as my "go-to" to attach baseboard and trim, now I use 1 1/2"....rule of thumb is to use the shortest fastener that will get the job done.

Fun fact, a 16ga finish nail driven into a copper pipe won't leak because the nail seals its own hole. Trim feels secure like you hit a stud. About 3 months later it will start to leak as the galvanic corrosion starts, and by 4 months water will appear out of nowhere.....ask me how I know

Lol crown molding is a plumber’s nemesis

Those building are either very old or were NOT inspected, because the nail plate requirement goes back many years.

They were not PROPERLY inspected.

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638