The two plumbers I have talked to so far propose using copper stub-outs to the fixtures. However, the guy in the video below (who in other videos says he started doing PEX repipes in the early 90s and his company has done over 70K) claims copper stub-outs are bound to fail. I find his 8-year claim unlikely* but using PEX for the stub-out does eliminate on connection behind the wall. If the angle stop is on PEX, when you shut off the water is there a problem with angle stop twisting on the wall since the connection isn’t rigid?

Which approach do you recommend for a repipe: Copper or PEX stub-outs?

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I'm not a plumber, so listen to the other responders. I re-plumbed my place with PEX but use copper everywhere you can see it, which also happen to be places that have valves on them and are subject to being hit or cut or otherwise damaged. I solder the stubouts to drop ear elbows which I screw to studs. Someone said, 'If you make something fool-proof, someone will invent a bigger fool.' The copper looks better, is much stronger. If I hadn't done this rehab, when I shop for my next place, I'd look askance at plastic plumbing.

Agreed when installing pex a copper X pex turnout is used to stub out for any valve not in a cabinet like a toilet or pedestal sink

Arthur, I think it is more that nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently determined fool.

Bsipps: Thanks.

My 1963 home was built with galvanized. Over a period of 20 years I repiped the whole place with PEX long runs under the floor and copper in the bathroom and kitchen walls. Very happy with the result.

Be careful when using copper because it can pit particularly when used on a circulating line. Short turn elbows are of concern. Had it happen to me. The 90 was eroded and then was pitted.