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Author:
grwheel1 (PA)
I had some concerns about a recent Bradford-White install in a tenant's apartment, and showed the plumber (listed as Top Pro in thumbtack app) these pics. I'm in Pennsylvania.
I'd like to see some pro opinions on if you think my concerns are warranted. I put a paint can under the expansion tank. There is no shutoff before the expansion tank. There seems to be undue stress on the gas line.
Thanks for your time.
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Author:
bsipps (PA)
I don’t see a pic of the gas line above to tell whether it has a great amount of stress
Having no t&p drip leg is a code violation as well as the expansion tank piping should be rigid material like copper not pex
Also the expansion tank should not have an isolation valve… if they do the handle is usually removed to prevent people from closing the valve, the expansion tank is there for possible flood/safety reasons
Just looked at the pic more closely yes normally the cold water supply shut off valve is above the expansion tank tee
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
UNACCEPTABLE WORK
too many things wrong to even comment
your concerns are warranted
call in a LICENSED BONDED INSURED pro and GET A BUILDING PERMIT followed by the 'sign off' inspection
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
packy,
you are joking, right ?
this is a commercial application
as in rental property
sheeeez
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Putting a shutoff valve before the expansion tank is a personal preference, although I always do it. I, personally, would NOT have connected the tank with PEX, and would have used a "manufactured" support bracket for it. The gas line is probably OK, although a "caring plumber" would have used the proper sized nipple so the line was plumb. The relief valve should drain to an approved, "safe" location. The tank should be connected after the cold water shut off vale.
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Author:
packy (MA)
No I'm not joking. And it is a residential application. You can put the ex tank next to the water meter if you want. It will still. Work.pex is not supposed to be used closer than 18 inches but I don't think thai a reason evacuate a city block.
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Author:
exapprentice30 (MA)
The bottom of the gas line tee has a plug in it and it should have a drip leg on it.
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Author:
packy (MA)
gas code always said we had to put a drip leg anytime we trapped a gas line .
with CSST we run gas uphill and down hill all the time with no drip leg.
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Author:
exapprentice30 (MA)
My street had new high pressure gas lines installed in the street and ran new service lines and the regulators and meters were installed on the outside of the house. The new gas pipes come in the side of the house do a 180 to go under the floor joist to connect with the old gas pipes and a union is installed the low point. The old line had a drip leg installed where came into the basement. The gas company said you don t need a drip leg where it comes in to the building for high pressure system.
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Author:
NoHub (MA)
Drip legs are use-less and should be removed from the code. I hate seeing perforated strapping holding up anything. I do like the "Hydro Claw Expansion Tank Support Bracket".... find a stud and it's going no-where and yes, a ball valve to isolate the expansion tank is a must for future service or replacement. In Massachusetts you can't use those plastic runoff tubes anymore, copper only.
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Author:
grwheel1 (PA)
Thanks very much for the feedback, folks!
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