I am replacing a faucet. Bought the new one. Old supply lines had a ball-nose end with coupling nut. Measured everything (except the inner diameter) at the store to make absolutely sure there wouldn't be any surprises or problems. Get under the sink expecting to slide the ball nose snugly into the new faucet just like the old one - they won't fit and won't go in no matter how much force I use. Coupling nuts fit of course because the outer diameter is the same as the old one (standard). What am I doing wrong? Surely there is a way to get these lines shoved into the new faucet?

no, they do NOT go INTO the faucet shank but butt against it




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part (a) is called a bull end or ball end (does not go INTO the faucet shank)

part (d) is a compression joint (goes INTO the {angle}stop fitting)

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

But the upper ends of each supply line WERE inside the lower end of the old faucet tubes. They were so stuffed/stuck in there, that I had to use a lot of force to pull them out. And to make sure I wasn't wrong, after 30 minutes of pulling every muscle in my arms and shoulders trying to force those same supply lines into the NEW lower ends of the tubes on the new faucet - I grabbed the old faucet and sure enough, they go all the way in to the (apparently, slightly larger inner diameter) old faucet tubes. The new faucet has what appears to be plastic inside the metal outer tube which the old faucet did not have. This is infuriating to me because I literally asked the guy at the store to break open the faucet package precisely so I could measure the damn thing at every point - other than that interior section of the tubes which I didn't think could possibly be a problem. But - just out of curiosity - I thought that I would see what would happen if I just tightened that coupling nut up against the ball-nose connection WITHOUT them being inside the tubes - result - water pouring out from that connection. That was all the proof and confirmation I needed to know that these tubes were not going to work with the supply lines I have. And that I have wasted the research, drive to the store, and preparation for installing this faucet. Just great.

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Some manufactures are lining their faucets with plastic. I assuming to make no/low lead compliant and or they use aluminum water water ways (usually less expensive faucets) and line those water ways too.

Bottom line you need new stainless steel supply lines with a softer rubber cone washer that will conform to your faucet connection.

isn't plumbing wonderful......

The reason I left the existing supply lines on there is because I did not want to touch or mess around with the cut-off valves. I am terrified that they will fail is disturbed. I never expected not to be able to shove the top of the gray PEX risers into the faucet tubes. So after giving my back and shoulder a couple of days rest - I go to the Home Depot site to try and price the supply lines - and am shocked to see the crazy assortment of sizes and types of connections. I have no idea what all these abbreviations mean or which ones I need. The only thing I know is that the faucet tubes are 1/2 inch but all these other things flare, compression, fip, etc...and I can't really tell what the size of the valve end is but it appears smaller than the faucet end.

I feel like no matter what I buy it will turn out to be yet another unexpected disaster when I go to put them on. I still cannot believe the ball nose won't go in the new tubes.

The ball nose is NOT SUPPOSED to go into the valve body

repeat NOT supposed to

when you connect the supply tubes they must be SQUARE TO and precisely aligned with the faucet body

the shank nuts should make up by hand and secure the ball ends against the faucet shank PROVIDING the tubes are the proper length for the new faucet

THEN

the nuts are snugged down with a wrench




from your observations you may require an actual plumber on site

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Bernabeu,

From what I see in the picture he posted he has plastic supply lines that have the molded cone shape washer molded on to the ends. In my experience these are designed to go inside the faucet shank.

OP,

You need a connector with 1/2" FIP connection on one end to connect to the faucet and 3/8" compression connection to connect to the angle stop/shut off valve.

Take your old supply line with you to the parts house and they should be able to match it up to a new one.

Link to supply line from our sponsor -

[www.plumbingsupply.com]

Good luck.

the cone shape may go (partway) into the faucet shank but NOT the flange

the Franklin Nut (yes, i am that old) compresses the flange/assembly for a seal

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising.

point taken

thank you

'snide' comment deleted

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Some of the newer faucets have not to use solid copper or PEX risers. They need the flex braided lines that more of a flat rubber washer than the cone used for copper and PEX.