If you are repairing a break in an underground PVC pipe, there are a few ways such as using a slip fix coupling, or install a PVC union, or use a IPS size compression coupling such as one made by Ford Meter Box or similar.

One way to do it but not as elegant is to use 4 elbows to create an offset and back. My question has to do with using this method. If you are using this method and cement one joint at a time, the very last joint you make cannot be "rotated" to spread the cement like you could with other joints. If you want to rotate the pieces, you must do two joints at each end of a straight segment last and at the same time, thus you can rotate the pipe once you inserted it into both joints. Is that how the pros do it? Or is there a trick to still do one joint at a time and be able to rotate the last joint?

When making repairs the last joint is often a gamble of just getting the pipe inserted fully in to the fitting with no spin

I’ve rarely had a problem with leaks due to no 1/4 turn after cementing a joint,use more pvc cement if paranoia sets in

f we call the joints by numbers, starting at on end we have 1 and the last joint being number 8.
this is dependant on the amount of play.
you can assemble 2,3,4,5,6 and 7 out of place. make the nipples between 2-3 and 6-7 longer than they have to be.
then glue 1 and 8 at the same time. rotate them simultaneously into position.

if you size the loop properly you can call it an expansion loop

[www.bing.com]



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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Packy, that would work depends on the situation. If you are doing this standing up and the two ends are within easy reach. However, if the pipe to be repaired is underground and you dug up a small trench to get to it and you are kind of on your belly when doing the cementing and once you have the entire piece assembled and ready to do the joints 2-3 and 6-7 at the same time you also have to worry about reaching down to apply prime and cement the upfacing elbow joints 2/2 and 6/7 while holding the offset assembly without it touching the sides of the trench for it to get dirt to fall over. In these situations you may not have extra time to get those two joints at the same time.

What if I introduce two extra joints on the horizontal piece between your joints 4-5? In other words, cut the assembly into two equal pieces. Cement one end, then the other into the existing. Now you are left with a middle that needs a straight coupling, which is two joints but they are right next to each other. Prime and cement the coupling and pipe ends at the same time, flex the coupling into place and rotate the coupling to spread the cement.

That wpuld be the last type of repair I would make. In the first place, it creates EIGHT joints and a "U" shaped structure that will be subject to stress/breaking, (I have seen it happen many times)

Instead of 90s use 45s if you have enough space?

OR


MAKE enough space to 'flex in' a coupling

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Always bring a rubber “coupling”



Edited 1 times.

.... or, if a pressurized line, a 'Ford Coupling' DESIGNED and APPROVED for underground water line service

[assets.fordmeterbox.com] (see page J8)



the visible grooves in the clamp ends are not threads but grooves designed to 'bite' and hold the piping

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.

45s DO NOT go together the same way as 90s.

I know the offset elbows are not the best method, and personally I have always gone with using a slip or compression coupling or installing a pair of unions. In my original post I referenced the Ford Meter Box coupling which I used previously. But there may be circumstances this is the only feasible option so I want to know if there is a way to rotate to spread the cement on the last joint. Looks like only way is to do two joints at the same time.

Will this work? I've used it on irrigation to correct a 2 inch offset. May not be appropriate for your application.

[www.plumbingsupply.com]

@ Dave,

from the link provided:

Quote

Ideal for sprinkler systems. Not for constant pressure applications

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

I have yet to see a pvc potable water service in my local Tri state area so when pvc is mentioned I automatically go to drainage I misunderstood

Does it become brittle over time like cpvc does?

no

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

I would say that pvc does not become real brittle, but if I have to repair an existing pvc line I will only use a saw to cut it.

If I use a pvc ratchet style cutter it will sometimes crack.....not all the time. So now I just use a saw.

Just my 2 cents.

curly,

i accept your view on old pvc

f/w/i/w: i use chapstick on the sides of the cutter blade - works like a charm

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Sometimes you CHAP my hide.......

too old - don't get the joke re: CHAP my hide (? something to do with leather ?)



on a serious note; chapstick is primarily wax and makes the blade glide effortlessly through the cut

said stick is cleanly 'self storing' when retracted and totally 'non messy'

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

I will definitely be putting the chap stick theory to the test

PVC is vulnerable to UV damage but not an issue if buried