I’ve read many posts that recommend turning off the main water supply valve before leaving for vacation. Are the two methods below both acceptable and safe? Also, what’s the procedure for turning the water back on? Thanks in advance for all comments and suggestions!

1. Turn the main water shutoff valve off (in basement) and open all faucets starting on the top floor working down. Flush toilets. Open outside hose bibs. Basically drain all water from the pipes.

2. Turn the main water shutoff valve off (in basement) and keep one faucet open, like the lower bathroom or kitchen faucet. Keep the system pressurized. I don’t need to drain all the water from the pipes. I can leave one faucet on to release pressure.

If you are concerned about freezing: close main valve and open all faucets including hose spigots, ie. drain system as dry as possible AND turn off heater.

If you are concerned about possible leak/flood there are TWO scenarios:

You have an expansion/compression tank at water heater: Simply shut main valve.

or

You do NOT have an expansion/compression tank at water heater : Shut main valve AND open ONE faucet to relieve pressure AND turn off heater.

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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More concerned about leaks/flooding. I ordered an automatic shutoff valve which is on back order. I have an expansion tank at the water heater. Any harm opening one faucet as well?

if you are not concerned about freezing then it doesn't matter how many faucets you open.

Quote

Any harm opening one faucet as well?

NO



f/y/i: i live near myrtle beach, sc ~ when i leave for over 48 hours: shut main, turn off electric water heater ~ done

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Thanks for the info! I like Myrtle Beach, I’ve been there a couple of times.

So, after I return I simply turn the main water supply back on? Do I need to open and bleed faucets etc. for any air that may have entered the pipes?

open any hw faucet to bleed any air/gas from the hw tank before restoring power to tank

anywhere else you may have an occasional harmless 'sputter'

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Hello Bernabéu I have been retired since 1999 and not been active in the trade. Where do you suggest getting Pressure Reducing Valves for the main water into my San Diego Home like Wilkens 3/4 or 1"? TIA for your help

EB 45 = convental consumer grade 'watts type'

EB 25 = 'back seated' commercial grade with 'cartridge serviceability'

[www.plumbingsupply.com]


take into account:

Q. "What does 'DIFFERENTIAL PRESSURE P1 - P2 (psi)' mean?"
A. P1 is the unregulated inlet pressure and P2 is the regulated outlet pressure. The differential between these two numbers will indicate which column to use to determine which valve will work best at the gallon per minute flow rate you wish to use.

for EB 25:

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Thanks Bern. You are the best!



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