Yesterday while demonstrating to my elderly neighbor how a TP valve works, I tested mine only to have it leak. I went and bought a new one and it is behaving the same way. What am I doing wrong? I put it on pilot overnight thinking it might be the warm climate of late, but I awoke to the same thing. So step by step, what do I do when replacing it (I just want to make sure I'm installing it in right).

* Turn off cold supply coming into tank
* Set thermostat to pilot
* Release (open) TP valve to drain upper water
* Remove old TP valve
* Screw in new one

What am I doing wrong? How do I prevent any vacuums in the system also?

Thank you.



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nothing wrong

? what is the actual pressure ?

the valve is DESIGNED to be FULLY open @ 125#

you may have a 'failed' or 'water-logged' compression tank

you can try a LIGHT tap to 'seat' the new valve

LIGHT is the key word



If actual pressure is 'well' under 125# and you have a properly operating compression tank and a LIGHT tap does not seal the valve either:

try a third valve

or

get an actual plumber





ps. as it is a closed system what you THINK is an expansion tank is ACTUALLY a compression tank

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

I don't have any water pressure gauge to measure the pressure, but wouldn't the pressure be the same as the previous valve that I removed given the specs are the same?
I've opened and closed it many times to no avail.

What's the best way to refill a tank in this case also?

The shank of the new valve is slightly different (A little longer) and the probe on the new one is shorter by at least an inch. Would any of that make a difference?

your ORIGINAL valve 'dripped'

your REPLACEMENT valve 'dripped'

juuuuust perhaps you need to actually measure the pressure ????????????????????? .........................


[www.lowes.com]


let it read 12+ hours - the red pointer will show the highest pressure

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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Do you have a pressure regulator and expansion tank on the system? Maybe the water pressure is just at the open threshold and the old valve seal was stuck to the seat, requiring more water pressure or lever movement to start leaking. You can get an inexpensive gauge that screws to a garden faucet/laundry valve, to check the pressure. If you have a regulator, it needs attention.

That's two for a water pressure tester ... I'll look into it. Thanks, Steve.
No, I don't have any kind of tank tied to the heater.

My question is why would it do this (water pressure issues) after working so well for almost 30 months problem free? Does water pressure vascillate like that on occasion?

Thank you.

yes water pressure does go up and down. typically goes up when the water heaters fires up.
so get one of those pressure guages and screw it onto the heater tank drain valve. open the valve and leave it open. if the drain valve leaks around the handle when left open then close it and move the guage to and outside faucet. the pressure there will be the same or very close.

I don't know if this is connected, but here it is and tell me what you think.

I don't know if you read my earlier posting about venting a water heater, but it was that elderly neighbor which had me showing him how a TP valve works when it simply stopped seating after my demonstration (Kind of embarrassing) to him. Anyway, the second new TP valve wouldn't seat also and you and Bernabeu are here commenting and leaning toward high water pressure being the issue.

Well, about a month or so ago, I started hearing the faint sound of water being used in my bathroom wall. It's constantly "on" and we aren't using water 24/7. We have no idea where it is coming from as that sound has been on daily 24/7 going on two months possibly. I just turned off the main supply and the sound went away. Would high water pressure create such an unaccounted untraceable water sound, and also be possibly connected to my TP issues? In other words, can this sound be connected, and if it isn't in your opinion, where is this sound hailing from?



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Is your house on a concrete slab wood framed with crawl space(assuming single story)? High water pressure might cause seepage through a toilet fill valve and you wouldn't notice an obvious "leak".



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? what is the ACTUAL MEASURED pressure ?


..... over and out .....

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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yeah, any guessing on our part is useless without knowing the actual water pressure.



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Frankster,test the Pressure.

Called a plumber today as suggested earlier in here. The plumber looked at the brand, shook his head,looked at the date of manufacture (January 2020) and claimed that these newer Home Depot Rheems are nothing but problems. He suggested I contact the number on the tank, which I did. The operator first claimed I needed a back up tank for pressure (which I've never needed, mind you); then she suggested I call the city to test the water pressure. Grrrrrrr.

Okay, I'm going to Home Depot to get a gauge and test it myself before calling the city. How do I do it? What's the best place to test it again?

If the water pressure is high, will a back up tank prevent this 31 month old heater from leaking and restore it to it's old self?

Thanks a lot again, guys.

Get a gauge with a garden hose thread connection. You can put the gauge on the water heater drain valve, a garden hose bib or clothes washer supply valve.



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Can I just screw it into the faucet coming right off the street with no hose? Wouldn't that be a more accurate reading - right where the supply is entering the house? I'll do it first thing tomorrow morning.

Thanks, Steve.

to repeat:

[www.lowes.com]

watch the video

leave the gage on for 12+ hours - it will indicate the HIGHEST recorded pressure

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.

Yes, a faucet with garden hose threads is called a hose bib.



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Okay, thanks. I just put it on. The red needle shot all away around to the 6:00 position. The black needle is a little over 140 at the moment. I kept wondering why you were referring me to Lowe's and some video, so I finally googled the store AND a Watt's gauge and it got me right to it. Thanks.

So let's say it reads high (Do I take readings for a couple of days?), would an expansion tank be in order, and would that expansion tank correct the problem negating me having to purchase another water heater after 31 months?

Thanks again.

Unless you are positive there is no pressure regulator, you should also check the pressure inside the house. If over 80psi inside, you need to install a pressure regulator and an expansion tank (or replace/repair existing).



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There are several possibilities:

Utility company installed a new water meter with a check valve creating a closed system and NOW you need to install an 'expansion tank'.

You actually DO have a PRV (pressure regulating/reducing valve) installed 'somewhere' which has failed and needs service or replacement.

You actually DO have an 'expansion tank' which failed.

You now have to do 'whatever' to reduce the house pressure below 80 psi AS PER CODE.


? Time for a licensed - bonded - insured plumber ON SITE ?

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

I googled what you mentioned, a PRV valve, to see what one looks like, and yes, I have one coming from the street. It’s ball valve, PRV, and then hose bib in the front corner of the house.

I don’t have an expansion tank - ANYWHERE.

Yesterday, I screwed the water pressure gauge to that aforementioned bib, and it read what it is reading today (On the water heater itself) at a little over 140 … I’m going to say about 143psi.

That figure is far from 80psi. Is it normal for such failure to be that off - by some 60 psi?

I’ll call a plumber tomorrow. So same question: If it is a water pressure issue, is this water heater salvageable? Will it return to its normal self once that water pressure issue is corrected?

Thank you so much for the diagnosis and assistance. Much appreciated. I’m thinking that first plumber should have checked the pressure just to eliminate one possibility.

Like I just responded to Bern, I did discover have a PRV, but no expansion tank. I did a check of water pressure on both the hose bib and the water heater of about 12 hours on each, and both readings are almost exactly the same (around 143psi). How would one do an INDOOR water pressure test with this gauge btw?



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Does not matter where you took the pressures measurement from you've got some serious pressure and need a new prv, (and an expansion tank) they come set at 50 psi.... you'll be fine with that. Get some bids from some local Plumbers, good luck.

Thank you. Advice dully noted and appreciated.



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you need a new PRV

and

an expansion tank


the water heater is not an issue

the temperature/pressure relief valve is acting EXACTLY as it should - relieving excess pressure



plumber now needed: make sure he/she is licensed, bonded, and insured

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.

Call coming up.

How does an expansion tank work in conjunction with a PRV ? Doesn't the latter negate the need for a tank?

the PRV does not (necessarilly) eliminate the need to 'contain/control' expansion due to water heating in a 'closed system'


said closed system may, or may nor, be CAUSED by a PRV or a 'check type' water meter


a competant licensed BONDED insured plumber is now your best friend to be


the 'BOND' refers to a performance bond which in SOME jurisdictions is actually REQUIRED

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638