Keeping in mind that I know nothing about plumbing, we have a leak at the P Trap under the kitchen sink. Water wells up from the nut at the joint where the P section joins to a short pleated looking piece (I’m assuming for flexibility in alignment?) coming from the T under the two sink drains. My husband has replaced the gasket there, but it still leaked. We tried putting plumbers putty under the nut since it looked like there had been some there before when we took it apart, and it helped for a couple weeks, but is now leaking again. I’d appreciate any help.

if you were able to stop the leak for 2 weeks then it can be stopped for good. instead of putty around the washer, use some good grade plumbers pipe dope to help the washer seal.
[www.lowes.com]

smear some around where the washer sets into. then slide the washer down and smear some more on top.

if you presently have a rubber 2 X 1-1/2 washer replace it with a plastic one



2" trap needs a reducing washer for a 1-1/2" tailpiece



the rubber 'standard' ones are tricky to seal ESPECIALLY if there is any misalignment

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

when you say the pipe is pleated do you mean you have something like this?



also do you have a garbage disposer? If so does the leak seem more pronounced when you turn your GD on?

Yes, similar to that. No garbage disposal.Thanks.



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That won’t glue it in place, will it? Is that the purple stuff I see in some places on PVC?
Thanks



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The washer we used is plastic, which kind of surprised me. The husband took it apart, so I didn’t get a good look at the old one. Doesn’t seem to be a difference in size of pipe, so I don’t think a reducer is our issue.
Thanks.

Best to post a picture of what you have so the pros can see what you are saying.

no, it is not a glue it is a high quality thread sealer.

Thanks. I will have to get some when I go to town. We had tried putting more putty where water drops were squeezing through, and tried tightening the nut further (but still only with hands). Leak is actually worse.

Trying to post image here




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Your P trap setup looks more like an S trap.

Also, I believe the strainer tailpiece should be in the longer end of the "U"

ditto

the trap 'piece' is reversed

the corrugated tube serves no purpose as there is NO mis-alignment

the unvented 's' trap is NOT code compliant



you need a plumber to come and fix the 'mess' - simple job including adding an AAV


BUT


you can simply stop the leak by reversing the trap 'piece'


for example:


the shorter end is a swivel connection NOT designed for a tubular pipe

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Oh wow. Had no idea about all of this. I guess I should have wondered why the guy who installed this for us 20 years ago was available. Thanks so much to everyone who answered. You guys are great!



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Quote

..... the guy who installed this for us 20 years ago .....

the key word is guy (as opposed to plumber)






? Why are people so adverse to plumbers doing plumbing ?

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

it is a prettu easy job to get your undersink piping up to code and leak free.
a plumber can redo the piping to look very similar to this.

not a big job at all...

So taking out the second part of the “s” and replacing it with a vent, in simple terms. Cool. Thank you so much for the help.

You are so right, sir! At the time we were in a hurry to get me moved into the house we had bought where I had just gotten a new job a few hours away from where we had been living. The “guy” replaced an awful old metal kitchen cabinet/sink combo with regular cabinets and this sink & plumbing mess. I’m surprised now that it took it over 20 years to leak!
Thanks again. You plumbers are the best.



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