Second post about my toilet that flooded the house due to a cracked plastic nut.
I am replacing six toilets and was planning on going with the metal nut that attaches to the toilet, (thanks Packy/(MA)).
Eastman/EZ-Flo makes what I want, but they have two types in the 12".
The 48088 and the 48097. The 48088 has comp (compression) fitting and the 48097 has flare. When I called Eastman to find out the difference, I did not feel very assured that the tech guy I spoke with knew what he was talking about. He said the difference was that the comp is for one-time use and the flare can be removed if needed.
Does this make sense? From his explanation, I'd obviously go with the flared fitting. When I Googled it I think they implied that comp was for gas???
Please advise comp or flare for a toilet. Keep in mind that it may need to be removed and replaced back on if I screw something up.
Lastly, are Eastman toilet lines a good product?
Thanks,
Larry

BTW, here is a photo of the cracked nut. We moved in a year ago and never touched the toilet inflo line. Strange that this would break out of nowhere.




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you want 3/8 compression x 7/8 ball cock..
[www.homedepot.com]

a dab of grease on the male threads will make tightening easier and leakproof

Possible it was over tightened during the install.

The supply line to the fill valve shank - by hand.
The supply to the stop valve - wrench.

I like the idea of a bit of plumber's grease to fight friction - so you can tighten to be leak free but not too tight to break the plastic fitting.



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You talked before of using a metal nut for the fill valve, if you do be careful not to cross thread it.

Has anyone seen a flare flex connector before? They're new to me.

i have senn a 3/8 copper kitchen sink supply that someone extended with a 3/8 flare union to reach the shut off. the shut off was 3/8 compression. this is as close as i have seen flare used under a fixture

That plastic fitting was overtightened, they last a long time if you install them by hand. I'm not aware of any way to connect a flare fitting to a fixture shutoff, so even though a better connection compression is likely your only choice.

No kidding? Thanks Steve, I've never seen a shutoff with a flare fitting.

you want a METAL supply line AND a metal coupling nut OR a heavy duty OEM nut as pictured which is HAND TIGHTENED only


[th.bing.com]


the washer is used on a plastic shank


if a metal shank (eg. fluidmaster pro 45-b) then no washer is needed IF a metal nut is used

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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And you may never see one actually installed.