Are sharkbite fittings considered to be mechanical? For example, a studor vent is mechanical, but a sweated connection pipe is not.

yes, a 'sharkbite' IS a 'mechanical joint'

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

is a "propress " fitting mechanical?
does it too need access?

no and no

there are NO 'moving' spring parts

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Is ProPress a mechanical joint?
The system is assembled when the pipe is fully inserted into the fitting, then pressed on both sides of the fitting seal, creating a mechanical joint.

so who is correct?

you or the internet?

Since SHARKBITES, are promoted as being the "best/safest way to assemble a home plumbing system" they could NOT need access panels on all of them.

isn't this a local/regional question if this is strictly about code?

does IPC or UPC has any references to push-in fittings?

can it be behind walls, can it be buried, can it be exposed to the sun, can it be in wet conditions etc etc etc...



Edited 1 times.

there are two kinds of SharkBite fittings. Ones that have leaked and the others that just need more time to leak.

Thanks for that last reply. I've never used a shark bite but don't like the idea of them. My father (steam fitter) taught me to sweat copper when I was 12 yrs old. As a DIYer ever since (I'm 76 now), this skill served me well for many projects in every home I've owned. My finished joints will never as "pretty" as my father's, but they never leak.

I need to replace a tub/shower valve. Access is very limited for both my big hands or a torch, plus the toilet is close. I'm considering 1/2" compression connection valves for the copper lead ins and 1/2" stainless reinforced flexible pipes to the valves. I've only used compression fitting a couple times and wonder what the consensus is in terms of longevity of comp fittings?

NoHub I'm stealing that line......

much more betterer line:

Quote

90% of all H*rleys sold are still on the road ..... the rest made it home.

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Even better. " If you believe a belt drive Harley does not vibrate, you must also believe Dolly Parton sleeps on her stomach".

which is more expensive? the sooner-leaker or the later-leaker sharkbites?

I know it is being approved to be used behind walls in more and more places, but I still don't use them unless it's temporary. My sister in Los Angeles hired a plumber to change out a new tub/shower valve and they used sharkbites. She sent me pictures and I told her to request that they solder the joints instead. She asked the plumbers and he said "your brother has no clue what he's talking about. Here is the SB elbow, see how much more expensive it is compared to a copper elbow? It's a far superior joint, otherwise, why would they charge so much more for it?"



Edited 1 times.

Bern & HJ,

I'm stealing those too.

Sum,

I only use sharkbites as a last resort or as temporary repair. Even when it is temporary I worry.

Another plumber installed a 3/4" SB cap that blew off copper line on a Sunday....6" water on the first floor of medical building. Was suppose to be temp....but job was completed and inspector signed off on final on Friday and it blew on Sunday.......

No reason that I could see why it blew off. Just did.

I've gone to the dark side and finally purchased a Ridgid Pro-Press tool 3 months ago. Few to none SB's in my future from now on....

bern, i wish you would answer my question.
does a propress joint (which according to the internet IS a mechanical joint) require access?
both rely on a rubber "O" ring.

packy,


IMO:

propress does not require aqccess because it is a 'solid' crimped connection - albeit 'i' would not use said system if avoidable because each joint depends upon an 'o' ring

sharkbite 'type' connections depend upon 'spring loaded' teeth which should/may 'grab' and hold


copper tube plumbing (water conditions and installation 'sizing' permitting) are still my preference

BUT

as we BOTH KNOW will cost more upon initial installation IF good practice is followed [eg. 'L' tube]

HOWEVER

water conditions may dictate NON copper piping



............... 'nuf said on this topic

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

i agree with y'all..
i still like and use soldered joints.
of course 99% of residential water piping is pex nowadays.

99% that much?

Packy, if I solder a PEX adapter onto a copper pipe, how long do I need to wait (for it to cool off enough) before I can connect the PEX to it crimped or expanded? I assume it's not a good idea while it's scorching hot to put plastic on it.

when i can hold my hand on the fitting without burning myself, it is good to go.

Now that is the most educated reply I have heard in a long time. Obviously, cost is relative to performance, which is why plumbers cost more than handymen, who also happen to use Sharkbites.

Have any of you ever been bitten by a shark.....it must hurt. I would stay away from them shark bites...

While replacing a water heater and re-routing a recirculation system I used 5 Sharkbite fittings. One had to be disconnected and reconnected twice because of bad advice from an AO Smith product manager. 18 months later and none of them have leaked even one drop.

The local hardware store said most of the local plumbers had switched to them.