I need to replace a MOEN tub spout where the diverter stem, knob and gate broke apart.

When I removed this spout it was very tight and I had to use a plumber's wrench to turn it counterclockwise. In doing so I put teeth marks on the spout.





I have a new one ordered and when I install it, I will put some pipe dope on the male end of the nipple from the wall, then thread it in my hand. As I tighten it by hand and get the spout to say ten 'O' clock is the tightest I can get it to by hand, now I need to go from ten 'O' clock to six 'O' clock. The spout's body is oval and there are no flats to put an adjustment wrench on. How do you do the final tightening without messy up the finish? I do have a strap wrench but I have never been able to use it to solve any problem like this.

Do I take a long flat head screwdriver, stick it at an angle into the slot at the problem and leverage that or will that end up breaking the spout?



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Just dope it and tighten it by hand. But before you dope it use teflon tape for extra insurance.

Yes you can carefully tighten it with a screwdriver I use the handle ends of my channel locks or a strap wrench

alot depends if there is room on the outlet end to cram a block of wood or the handle end of a screwdriver.

I would be very careful using a screwdriver since the Moen spout bodies are made of pot metal and are therefore not very strong.

You could try applying a bit of grease on the nipple threads. My rubber strap wrench works well on spouts and comes in handy removing frozen threaded on spouts.

Thanks all, I will try a strap wrench again. However when I took it apart the strap wrench didn't get it to move, I used a pipe wrench which really chewed up the finish. I need to order a new one, and Moen told me this one has been discontinued but they can send me another model.

Anyone know if different model MOEN tub spouts have the same distance from the wall to the 1/2" female connection recessed into the spout? Their support does not know, and this distance does not appear on their tub and shower specs.

plus a 'dusting' of plaster of paris for 'traction'

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Sum. Why not just install a nice Delta diverter spout with the pull down diverter at the end of the spout. Most if not all spouts are quick-set o-ring type ( slide over the copper) and it looks like you have Plenty of copper there.

NoHub, I have not seen a pulldown diverter I have to check into it.

Most of the spout diverters I have seen are pull up types and after a few years they start leaking (the gate gasket I think goes bad). Instead of replacing the gasket they always send me a whole new spout doesn't matter if it's Pfister or Delta or Moen.

Does the pulldown type work better?

As for using a slip on, I have a few of those. They are convenient and easier to install. However there is a price for this convenience which is you must have copper. In many of my rentals especially the older ones, I have twin ells behind the wall, and I prefer to use a brass nipple to go into the twin el because it's easier to tighten and remove (with a wrench). Of course, I have to get the right length nipple though which can be a pain. To use copper I will need to make a male adapter soldered to a copper pipe to go into the twin el, my concern is how do I tighten the copper pipe since the twin el is usually recessed far back into the wall so I cannot hold the flats on the male adapter, and cranking the round copper with a wrench can end up crushing the pipe or deforming it a little so the slip on connection may not mate perfectly. For this reason I use a brass nipple with a thicker wall that can take more abuse from a novice like me. These slip on connection takes CTS not IPS.

Can someone show what a pull down diveter is?

Here's the delta pull down. Note the adaptor thats already install on the copper pipe coming out of the wall., they come with set screws now and no soldering is needed. They come in Plastic or zinc ( no solid brass that I know of). Sum, your have to go with what you have now, thats the problem with brass nipples.


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Interesting. I have never seen that before with a diverter that pulls down.

a slip on spout does have one other advantage which is you don't need to be precise at all with the length of the stubout. With a nipple you have to be exact with the length and even so you might end up with a spout when tightened being 1/8" from the wall that you can do nothing about. I usually measure the distance from the female in the wall to the female in the spout, then add 1" assuming the nipple's threaded ends will engage about 1/2" on each end. Then if the distance is like 4-3/16" you have to get a 1-1/2 nipple.

If they have a slip on spout that is IPS size that would be amazing.

[vm.tiktok.com]

Our sponsor sells the Delta spout RP17453 with pull down diverter that will work for copper or threaded connection. I have used them before and it works pretty good.

The threaded one will usually get close enough to finished wall that all you need is a little caulking and you are good to go.

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well, I received a new Moen tub spout.

The only issue is the old one that has been discontinued the female connection is recessed from the wall 3-5/16".

The new one they sent is recessed 3-13/16", a 1/2" further.

Is there any fitting I can use to extend my current male end 1/2"? Or do I have to remove the stub and go find a longer one?

it is called a 1/2 inch brass extension. whether it is 1/2 or longer ????

you can make ANY length nipple needed WITHOUT the need for a 'nipple chuck'


stock and die

vise

hacksaw




==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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